Blog

Sailor Seeks Horse – Careful Whisper

Sailor Seeks Horse – Careful Whisper

Over two days in late June I tasted a lot of wine, about 150 samples of different styles from around the world. There are always a few standouts, the lovely and not so lovely, but almost all of them made well and to a high standard. And then there are those that stop...

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Q and A with Shaun Crinion from Dappled Wines

Q and A with Shaun Crinion from Dappled Wines

We've been following the fortunes of Dappled wine for a few years now and Shaun's impeccable wines remain some of the best value for money in Australian wine today. As our 2020 Q&A with him attests, Dappled is all about good booze at a bloody good price! 2023 New...

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Adelina 2022 – Signposts of Style

Adelina 2022 – Signposts of Style

Adelina's vineyards are neighboured by Wendouree, one of Australia's most significant vinous properties and there are some striking similarities of style, most notably in relation to tannins and shape. The finished wines provide us signposts to the styles that Col...

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Domaine A – As Authentic As Love

Domaine A – As Authentic As Love

I must admit to holding an ill-founded long prejudice against the estate of Domaine A, harbouring the view that the wines were inauthentic; a copy of Bordeaux. It seems illogical to me now as all wine from Australia, at its root, is a copy, and the early settlers...

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Iggy Wines – Classic is always best

Iggy Wines – Classic is always best

Chatting with a Serbian friend, originally from Bosnia, we were discussing the different ways our cultures referred to grandparents. Grandpa/ma, nanna, pop, nan, nonna/nonno for Italians (she is married to a Calabrese), yia yia/papu and in Serbian, deda/deka. We had...

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Stonegarden Wines – Take a bottle from home

Stonegarden Wines – Take a bottle from home

The Stonegarden vineyard was planted between 1857 and 1860, for reasons unknown, in the south eastern corner of the Eden Valley region of the Barossa. It's cooler and drier than much of the region, resulting in tiny berries and low yields. The wines are intensely...

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Blast Off – Sierra Reed’s 2023 Rieslings

Blast Off – Sierra Reed’s 2023 Rieslings

Tasting the wines of Sierra Reed is one of the most satisfying vinous experiences every year. The range is diverse, the grapes sourced from all over, and moreover, it's impossible to pin down a 'style'. Every wine presents differently, not only within the range, but...

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Vinya Vella – I am become a Name

Vinya Vella – I am become a Name

Vinya Vella is the very personal project of Dylan Griggs, one of Australia's foremost viticulturists. A tiny vineyard, just 6 hectares of mostly grenache planted on the eastern slopes of the Barossa Valley, just below the upper reaches of the Eden Valley. No doubt the...

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Vanguardist – Bookend Australian wines

Vanguardist – Bookend Australian wines

In a recent review of the 2022 Vanguardist MVG Grenache, Gary Walsh asked and answered the rhetorical question "Is it the best Australian Grenache? I think maybe so." A better question, I think, would have been "Is this the most beautiful Australian Grenache?" and my...

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Eva Fricke 2022 – ageless & peerless

Eva Fricke 2022 – ageless & peerless

First, a little history After the defeat of Germany in May 1945, one of the curious sights amongst the ruin and rubble were people chipping away at Stucco. En-stucking, was the practice of removing a buildings outer layer of decorative stucco. Usually full of flourish...

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Sublime South African Chenin Blanc

Sublime South African Chenin Blanc

If there is one varietal South Africa is known for, it is Chenin Blanc. With almost 20% of plantings, it is South  Africa's most widely planted variety.   Revered and respected Known colloquially as Steen, Chenin is to be found all over the Western Cape, adapting...

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Mayford Wines – Quality & Value

Mayford Wines – Quality & Value

Tempranillo often plays second fiddle, third or fourth for wine lovers and growers alike, so it is a delightful surprise to discover an Australian producer focusing on the Holy Grail that is Tempranillo and, as it turns out, crafting the country's finest example -...

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Traviarti New Nebbiolo & Chardonnay

Traviarti New Nebbiolo & Chardonnay

Always one of our favourite releases of Australian wine, Traviarti has established itself as one of the country's foremost Nebbiolo producers. Tiny vineyards alas sell through their wine quickly but here there are two wines from 2023, Chardonnay and the Rosso (93%...

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Alheit Vineyards – Diamonds in the Rough

Alheit Vineyards – Diamonds in the Rough

Alheit: "We practice simple and careful winemaking: no yeasts, no enzymes, no acidification, no sulphur before ferment, no blocking malo, no new barrels, no fining etc. No manipulation." I have come to love the idea that pure, fine wine can be harvested in the most...

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Authentic Italian Remembrances Past

Authentic Italian Remembrances Past

How often have I heard it said that wine tastes better in Italy or France, and drinking it here in Australia, just isn't quite the same. It's true of course, how could it possibly taste the same, or as good, sipping it as you are, in a snatched moment of relaxation,...

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J&S Fielke – the magic in the glass

J&S Fielke – the magic in the glass

The Adelaide Hills it seems is a great incubator for young couples creating their own wine journeys. A region that was once defined by classicism, until a new wave of avante garde and contemporary wine producers, innovated and transformed the Australian vinous...

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Apogee – Australia’s Grower Sparkling

Apogee – Australia’s Grower Sparkling

Many of Tasmania's sparkling wines are crafted from bought grapes and made by a contract winemaker. Whilst there is nothing wrong with this, what with the cost of purchasing land and establishing a vineyard, it doesn't ooze the magic of a farmer growing, fizzing and...

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Larmandier-Bernier Spring 2023 Releases

Larmandier-Bernier Spring 2023 Releases

One of the most significant trends of Champagne in the last 20 years is the increasing prevalence of little or no dosage. Dosage is sugar added to the final blend, to balance out Champagne's naturally high acidity. Many growers began lowering their levels of dosage,...

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Scions of Sinai – not to be taken for granted

Scions of Sinai – not to be taken for granted

Hmmm, syrah grown on granite. Bernhard Bredell became sick of seeing ancient bush vines simply grubbed up, as farmers didn't have the markets or the ability to harvest and vinify the grapes. Scions of Sinai is based on Sinai Hill in lower Heldeberg, Stellenbosch....

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Juxtaposed New Release – perfect wine joy!

Juxtaposed New Release – perfect wine joy!

There are plenty of producers crafting good wines from excellent, well known fruit sources in McLaren Vale. It is, in a sense, crowded. But a crowd brings competition and competition, for the patient wine lover, gifts beautiful, authentic wines that most of us can...

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Bannockburn Single Vineyard Release 2022

Bannockburn Single Vineyard Release 2022

I was lucky enough to receive an invitation to taste the 2022 release of Bannockburn single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs, including back vintages all the way to 1995. Very few Australian producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay could boast that far back and...

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Mac Forbes – When the Facts Change…

Mac Forbes – When the Facts Change…

I have tasted the wines of Mac Forbes a number of times over the years, and was never entirely convinced. Bursting onto the wine scene in 2004 after stints at Mount Mary and Southcorp, he was and is a pivotal producer showcasing an alternative expression of the Yarra...

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Gentle Folk – Beautiful, soulful wines

Gentle Folk – Beautiful, soulful wines

From three barrels in 2012, marine scientists Gareth and Rainbo Belton have grown to 8 hectares, five staff and between 6 and 7 thousand cases of wines. All vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically with absolutely no additions in the cellar, save for small...

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Bindi – a first amongst equals in Macedon

Bindi – a first amongst equals in Macedon

It's been too long, about four years, since I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Bindi, so when invited to a trade tasting that included this wonderful producer I jumped at the chance. From the very first sniff, Bindi once again confirmed its status as a first...

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Mercer Wines – rich and sumptuous

Mercer Wines – rich and sumptuous

It is every Hunter Valley wine lover's labour and curse to preach of its glories and delights. Whenever I happen to write of the Hunter Valley, I find it impossible not to mention the indifference of most Australian wine drinkers. Ah well, let's keep on keeping on....

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Bicknell FC – Fresh, intense and vivid

Bicknell FC – Fresh, intense and vivid

Bicknell FC is the label of Nicky Harris and David Bicknell, chief winemaker at Oakridge. David Bicknell is one of Australia's greatest winemakers and we have had many a superb cellared bottle contest between Oakridge and Bicknell FC. All the fruit is from a close...

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Crawford River – Poise and power

Crawford River – Poise and power

Henty must be a pretty tough place to live, let alone grow grapes. Its isolated location and freezing temperatures mean there are just two wine producers that define it - Crawford River and Hochkirch. Both producers are definitive of the grapes they grow and the...

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Thibaud Boudignon – defining Savennieres

Thibaud Boudignon – defining Savennieres

Much of the literature surrounding Thibaud Boudignon begins with phrases like "bright new star", "most exciting", or "young star" and so on. I'm not sure what a man needs to do to be the star, or how many vintages one needs to work, or wines made to become part of...

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Agricola Vintners – savoury and ripe Barossa

Agricola Vintners – savoury and ripe Barossa

Agricola Vintners' shiraz's begin in their vineyards, which are some of the grandest fruit sources in the country. Three Rivers, Asbroek and Dimchurch, to name a few from vines up to 170 years old. In a sense the wine that encapsulates the Barossa, according to Callum...

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Weiser Kunstler – Powerplay Riesling

Weiser Kunstler – Powerplay Riesling

Weiser Kunstler’s vineyards of Ellegrub, Steffensberg and Gaispfad are Grand Cru vineyards, by any measure (except the VDP’s, who coincidently have no members working these sites). They accorded the status of Grand Cru to their vineyards based on the 1897 Prussian...

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Frederic Savart – Champagne Thrills

Frederic Savart – Champagne Thrills

Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne's most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but...

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Heroic Viticulture in South Africa

Heroic Viticulture in South Africa

South Africa's Cape Town may have dodged 'Day Zero', when the possibility of the city running out of water was nail bitingly close, but the country's water crisis isn't over yet. Drought still afflicts much of the Cape and the threat of Day Zero remains very real. It...

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Francois Millet – Melody of the Old Guard

Francois Millet – Melody of the Old Guard

“Be sure that the land is visible in the glass. That is the essence of what we do”. Francois Millet If I could add my own caveat to Francois’s imperishable phrase, it would be to do justice to the fruit. Is the wine as delicious as the fruit and vineyard promised and,...

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The Americans in Sydney

The Americans in Sydney

A recent invite to an American wine tasting had me wondering what did I really know, or think of American wines? Well, very little as it happens, but enough to know that there are treasures to be had and the first wine tasted confirmed this - not just not bad, but...

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New – Ravensworth Estate Release

New – Ravensworth Estate Release

The 2021 estate release are wines grown on Ravensworth’s own immaculate vineyard. Ravensworth also produces a number of excellent wines, with fruit purchased predominantly from Hilltops. After 20 vintages, owner/winemaker Bryan Martin has refined his style into a...

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Pabiot Loire – Sauvignon not as you know it

Pabiot Loire – Sauvignon not as you know it

'Forget Sauvignon as you taste these wines' comes from an Andrew Jefford article titled Sancerre and Friends, published in Decanter in late 2017. Needless to say that all the wines of Pabiot are Sauvignon Blanc, yet as you taste through them, the less Sauvignon Blanc...

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Chateau de Pibarnon – Benchmark Rose

Chateau de Pibarnon – Benchmark Rose

Pibarnon is Bandol’s highest vineyard at 300 metres, an amphitheatre of vines facing the Mediterranean. Vineyards planted in this way generally trap heat, creating a cauldon effect, but at Pibarnon, the amphitheatre provides shelter from the regions strong winds,...

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Traviarti 2022 Chardonnay and Rosso

Traviarti 2022 Chardonnay and Rosso

Nebbiolo it seems is the new Holy Grail of Australian wine. Simon Grant's vision for Traviarti has always been about crafting beautiful Nebbiolo, and so he does; Australia's best alongside Pipan Steel. But never mind all this. The Holy Grail for Australian wine's...

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2021 Fritz Haag and Burklin-Wolf

2021 Fritz Haag and Burklin-Wolf

The concentration, balance, complex flavour and textural profiles, extract and sleek velocity of the 2021 wines will make these some of the greatest and longest lived German Rieslings this century. A cool and late vintage of cut and finesse, but also fleshy mid...

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Discovering Guillot-Broux, Maconnais

Discovering Guillot-Broux, Maconnais

Based in Cruzille, Guillot-Broux was founded in 1978 when the land was cheap and the wines of the Maconnais not exactly known for their grandness. Cruzille is gifted with limestone, marl and iron rich soils; sunshine, rainfall and elevation - an area gifted with fine...

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Quinta do Noval Ports – World Beaters

Quinta do Noval Ports – World Beaters

Quinta do Noval's style, and Portuguese Tawnys in general, are very different to Australian equivalents. Firstly, the alcohol levels are higher and you can taste the spirit and feel the heat. Secondly, the increase in spirit also changes the shape. Portuguese Tawnys...

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Introducing Ossa Wines – Grand Cru Tasmania

Introducing Ossa Wines – Grand Cru Tasmania

Ossa was founded in 2017 by Rod and Cecile Roberts, eponymously named after Tasmania's highest peak - Mount Ossa. Situated on the East Coast, joining the rush for land which many observers believe harbours Australia's greatest cool climate potential. Planting 20...

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Vanguardist 2022 Spring Releases

Vanguardist 2022 Spring Releases

Twenty years ago, it would have been inconceivable to drink wines of the Vanguardist style. Large producers, aided by compliant wine critics and journalists churned out full bodied, sweet fruited and extracted wines. Small producers were no different, and it seemed...

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Verget – New Spring 2022 Releases

Verget – New Spring 2022 Releases

Every year, Verget confuses us all by releasing wines from various vintages and appellations. For the neat, logical and rational people out there, this must seem perverse. Why not concentrate our minds and tastebuds on one vintage and better still, release wines from...

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Josh Cooper’s 2021 Summertime Cabernets

Josh Cooper’s 2021 Summertime Cabernets

Josh Cooper's three Cabernets from different sites across Victoria are some of the most important wines released in Australia this year. Cabernet Sauvignon is so often overlooked, and many Australian iterations are unexciting corporate wines. I feel we have forgotten...

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Picardy – Wines of Chiseled depths

Picardy – Wines of Chiseled depths

Rarely is a wine region so defined by one producer as Pemberton is by Picardy Wines. Only identified as a potential region for vine growing in the 1970's, Pemberton can now boast over 50 wine producers, with Picardy at the forefront. Founded by Bill and Sandra...

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Swinney Release Spring 2022 -Treading Softly

Swinney Release Spring 2022 -Treading Softly

Swinney has never been less than awesome, creating new benchmarks and pushing boundaries. The 2021 vintage reds are the best since 2019 and the most charming and delicious. The vintage was cool, hence the harvest was late, creating ideal conditions for wines of...

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Enderle and Moll – Nothing quite like it

Enderle and Moll – Nothing quite like it

This is not Burgundy. There, I said it. Is our love of Burgundy a love of Pinot Noir, or are we that obsessed with Burgundy we can't see past it? Pinot Noir is known as Spatburgunder in Germany and, like everywhere else, style and taste is as much to do with the...

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CRFT Gruner Veltliner – Unsurpassed in Oz

CRFT Gruner Veltliner – Unsurpassed in Oz

CRFT Wines (pronounced croft) was founded in 2012 by winemakers Candice Helbig and Frewin Ries. Sourcing fruit from 10 single vineyards across the Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley, they make wines from established varietals and relative newcomers. Indeed CRFT are...

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A Rodda Chardonnays – New Premium Release

A Rodda Chardonnays – New Premium Release

Vintage reports aside, 2021 is an exceptional vintage for A Rodda. Only one Chardonnay was produced in 2020, due to the bushfires, so it's a delightful relief to taste through the suite of 2021's. These wines are compact and coiled, packed with dense tangy citrus,...

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Rieslingfreak – there’s nowhere to hide

Rieslingfreak – there’s nowhere to hide

Something my dad used to tell me often, and advice I did not heed until middle age, was to 'know thyself'. Happily, absorbing wisdom came much sooner for John Hughes, who was called Riesling Freak by his friends as he always brought around a bottle of Riesling or two....

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Stargazer Tasmania – Passion and True Grit

Stargazer Tasmania – Passion and True Grit

Stargazer, in a very short space of time, has become one of the most exciting prospects in Tasmania. Passion and true grit Founder/owner/winemaker and grape grower, Samantha Connew, released her first Stargazer wines in 2012, after previously working with Wirra Wirra...

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Domaine Barmes-Buecher – Another Level

Domaine Barmes-Buecher – Another Level

There was a time when the wines of Alsace were all chisel and sinew, so plain under the clothes. Described as elegant, restrained, aristocratic and mineral, they often displayed shrill structures, hard textures and empty fruit profiles. They were Alsace's answer and...

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CRFT Wines – Arranmore and Whisson Pinots

CRFT Wines – Arranmore and Whisson Pinots

CRFT's stunning wines are the work of Candice Helbig and Frewin Ries from their serene property, tucked away in the Piccadilly Valley. Their certified organic Arranmore Vineyard is almost other-worldly, with 150 year old trees lining the driveway, old fruit trees with...

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Greenock Creek – The Bold and the Beautiful

Greenock Creek – The Bold and the Beautiful

If there is one producer that embodies what most of us would come to expect from the Barossa Valley, then Greenock Creek is it. That is not to say that there aren't other styles and regional interpretations, but for wines of scale, this has to be the benchmark...

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Akutain Cosecha Rioja 2019 – Made Simple

Akutain Cosecha Rioja 2019 – Made Simple

Cosecha literally means harvest and, in the context of Rioja, is made without extended ageing in cask. Designed to be consumed young, usually described as fresh, vibrant, fruit driven - these are taverna wines. Like all classifications, it's important to look past...

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La Soufrandiere – Tensile and Tippy-Toed

La Soufrandiere – Tensile and Tippy-Toed

Knowing we were to taste some of the new releases from La Soufrandiere, we dusted off a bottle of Bret Brothers (the original La Soufrandiere) Terroirs du Maconnais 2016. And what a lovely bottle of wine it was too. Vintage 2016 in Burgundy is a favourite of mine....

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The Golden Wines of the Maconnais

The Golden Wines of the Maconnais

For descriptive and conceptual purposes, we tend to discuss and taste wines from a huge area and call them Burgundy. Varietals aside, the wines of Irancy for instance, at the northwestern tip of Burgundy bear little resemblance to those of the Cote d'Or. Their taste,...

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New South African Wine Arrivals

New South African Wine Arrivals

With its long and often tragic history, South Africa has developed a unique vinous character, markedly different from anywhere else in the 'New World' or in Europe. Grapes arrived with the first Dutch settlers, but much needed expertise would only arrive in the colony...

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The magnificent wines of Luis Seabra

The magnificent wines of Luis Seabra

I first came across Douro reds in the UK, around the early 2000's. Quinta do Crasto comes to mind, and they were excellent. Full bodied and round, they wore the sun on their shoulders. Not the scorching stab of mid afternoon Australian sun, but a warm, cosy coat of...

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Guffens-Heynen 2020 – Hammer and Chisel

Guffens-Heynen 2020 – Hammer and Chisel

Two of our favourite white Burgundy producers are Goisot and Guffens-Heynen. Ironically they are of opposing styles and one is from the northern reaches of Burgundy - Goisot, while Guffens-Heyen the south in the Maconnais. Goisot's wines are sleek, chiselled and...

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Joh. Jos. Prum 2020 New Release

Joh. Jos. Prum 2020 New Release

Coming off the universally acknowledged 'great' vintage of 2019, 2020 would always be a vintage looking over its shoulder. But considering the silky lusciousness and richness of recent vintages, 2020 is a welcome return to Mosel classicism. Shimmering purity, intense...

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Rivulet Wines – Capturing the Magic

Rivulet Wines – Capturing the Magic

Of all Australian wine regions, Tasmania (if we are still able to lump the state together), is touted as the most exciting. It's certainly popular and the price of grapes is the most expensive in the country. New regions present a new hope and enthusiasm, but great...

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Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2018 – One Year On

Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2018 – One Year On

Just for the heck of it, we recently decided to open a bottle of Yangarra's 2018 Ironheart Shiraz a year or so after its release. The 1.8Ha Ironheart vineyard is set high in McLaren Vale, and consists of sandy ironstone soil, and in these exposed almost arid...

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Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz 2019 – One Year On

Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz 2019 – One Year On

The Barossa Valley is Australia's most important fine wine region, owing to its history, size, commercial and qualitative success. When I first started drinking wine the Barossa Valley, as with all Australian wine regions, was thought of in the singular. A big region,...

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Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico is one of the least understood wine denominations. Most of us, if asked where and what it is, would say something like 'it's the original part of Chianti', or 'the best Chianti's are Classicos'. Although these statements may be true, it doesn't really...

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La Torre – Classic, complete Brunello

La Torre – Classic, complete Brunello

Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde would have loved Brunello di Montalcino. There isn't a wine region anywhere else in the world that encompasses so many personalities and styles, and at their best, perhaps conveys them all. Full bodied, or not, tannic, chewy, rugged, savoury,...

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La Rioja Alta New Release – Autumn 2022

La Rioja Alta New Release – Autumn 2022

Autumn is the best season to drink the wines of La Rioja Alta. The first smoky wisps of winter, scents of fading flowers and the irrevocable sweetness of summer are glimpsed in these, most delicious bottles. The fruit is brighter than when I first drunk these wines 20...

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Quealy Wines – Put an edge on it

Quealy Wines – Put an edge on it

I think it was Tolstoy who said that you will never be content if you look for perfection. I believe wine lovers are absorbed by the twin concepts of greatness and perfection, and thus narrow their drinking habits to fewer varieties. Varieties such as Chardonnay,...

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The true taste of Spanish traditions

The true taste of Spanish traditions

Do you remember when you were young, thinking and acting like your parents were idiots? You might have even thought that they didn't understand you, that nowhere within their combined realms of experience, were circumstances that resembled yours. I thought like this,...

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Polperro – Australia’s Best ‘Burgundy’

Polperro – Australia’s Best ‘Burgundy’

You can't call an Australian wine Burgundy anymore, and fair enough too. Burgundy and Bordeaux are the most imitated wine regions on earth, setting benchmarks for their varietals and styles, which at their best, have no equal in the world. So, in Australia,...

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Weingut Rings – You’ve discovered a star

Weingut Rings – You’ve discovered a star

There are very few genuinely exciting wines. Light bulb moments might only happen a couple of times a year, if you're lucky. Great wines are not necessarily crowd pleasers either. Indeed, many of the world's great wines do poorly in blind wine tastings, struggling to...

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German Rieslings of 2020 – Castles and Gardens

German Rieslings of 2020 – Castles and Gardens

Sometimes I wonder what people get out of fine wine. The cheaper stuff, fault free and full of pleasant flavour, will do for most of us, most of the time. Wonderful wines are like wonderful books. They are thought-provoking and evocative, sentimental and familiar. I...

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Bernard Defaix – 2020 Chablis & Petit Chablis

Bernard Defaix – 2020 Chablis & Petit Chablis

Despite losing close to half of their crop due to late frosts, the Defaix's still count themselves lucky. Numbers are terrible for much of France; most Chablis producers being hit with losses in the vicinity of 80%. So, volumes are down, prices are relatively stable...

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Onannon – 2021 wines and single sites

Onannon – 2021 wines and single sites

Our first trip to the Mornington was an excercise in tasting very light coloured reds and frisky, early picked whites. So much so, that I wasn't sure (still not sure), if it was the nature of the place or the wine producers. Crunchy red fruits and green apple flavours...

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Domaine Gueguen Chablis – sleek and finessed

Domaine Gueguen Chablis – sleek and finessed

Chablis' surge in popularity has come as a bit of surprise. Recently, a Sommelier told me that “it’s the new sav blanc”, and she seemed gratified with this, commenting that it was more versatile and food friendly than the famed Marlborough white. True, I thought, but...

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WINES FROM ARTISAN, ICONIC AND FAMILY-OWNED PRODUCERS

Waters Wine Company offers a great range of well-chosen, good value and interesting wines

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