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Gelmino and Cristina Dal Bosco farm 9 hectares dotted around the hamlet of Brognoligo. Small parcels are planted to Garganega. The soil here is volcanic, and the best vineyards are ideally situated on south facing slopes, the steepest of which are the Cru of Roccolo del Durlo and the Battistelle vineyard. Both vineyards are farmed by the traditional Veronese pergola method and the slopes are held together by dry stone walls.

Winemaking is modern and captures what’s best about Soave. Ripe, destemmed grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel and the wine is left to age on fine lees. Grapes from better vineyards are often cold soaked and left to age longer on lees. Simple winemaking ensures the purest fruit expression. Batonage, that is the stirring of lees, and lees ageing adds a touch of almond cream to the wine, greater density and flesh.

The wines are delicate, intense, layered and detailed, light in body, with just the right amount of weight. The Montesei Soave Classico is the lightest, a collective expression of the various vineyards of the estate. Here there is incredible complexity for a wine of this level and it is a perfect introduction to the wines of Soave.

The single vineyard wines Battistelle and Roccolo del Durlo are more dense and structured. A real departure from the Montesei and Battistelle, the Roccolo is rich and deep, with yellow and red fruits, honey and assorted flowers. I couldn’t think of three better wines to showcase the finely-woven elegance of Soave.

 

La Battistelle ‘Montesei’ 2021 – $30

Aromatically complex, every sniff revealing something new. White flowers, marjoram, white peach, lemon and melon. Delicate palate, light almost, but with pulpy fruit. For all its lightness, the wine has terrific personality, the flavours clear and precise and a structure that is entirely wrapped up by the fruits, flowers and spice. Absolute lunch perfection.

 

La Battistelle ‘Battistelle’ 2020 – $40

Despite being a single vineyard and not a blend like the Montesei, there are similarities. Wildly complex, with white flowers, honeysuckle, lemon zest, grapefruit, white peach, orchard fruits and mustard seed. Deep and focused with greater amplitude and a peacocks tail of flavour and texture. The palate is at once succulent and light on its feet, supple and firm. There’s some spicy watercress which carries the length – minerals, sunflowers, lavender, honey – a purity that makes you want swim in a freshwater lake! Incredible wine, such immense presence without being hedonistic, concentrated or over-structured.

 

La Battistelle ‘Roccolo del Durlo’ 2020 – $45

Dense and rich with yellow peach, paw paw, apricot, cherry, kiwifruit, lime and gardenia. Old vines and low yields on a steep gradient lend themselves to contraction, structure and individuality. The palate is unctuous, and it’s hard not to imagine taking a bite out of a perfectly ripe peach, or cherry or taking a spoon to a paw paw. Defined flavours with some whipped cream to gild the lily and, as always, the structure is consumed by the mass of fruit. Utterly remarkable and we can’t wait to see this wine 10 years hence.

 

 

 

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