It’s always insightful to retaste wines, particularly those which have had greater than usual impact or elicited stronger and more forceful opinions. I like to leave readers in no doubt of my views, so retasting is a time of trepidation; particularly when they are wines that I love or have made some big statements about. Was my initial enthusiasm justified, had I taken leave of my senses, and with my inclination to nail my colours to the mast, was my judgement good? Well, the proof is in the pleasure.
The Place of Changing Winds Grower Series is exactly that, made from fruit not owned by the estate, but grown in close collaboration with the farmer. The estate wines are grown off the property’s high density vineyard in the Macedon ranges. The Tradition range is an homage to the region, a blend of the region’s classic grapes and a historical vinous snapshot. I would imagine the idea has travelled from South Africa, where many of the country’s finest wines are blends made up of the region’s historic varietals. Such philosophical concepts are unheard of in Australia, an incredible missed opportunity in my view to craft a wine unique to the region. I digress..
The tasting was conducted in our backyard on Sydney’s Northern Beaches with Remi Jacquemain of the estate, and it’s immediately apparent that the wines have an estate DNA that crosses varietal and regional boundaries. Lifted aromatics, with a compote of dark, bramble and red fruits and tertiary overtones of flowers, spices and turned earth. There is a seamless quality to the wines, a drive that’s flowing, fleshy, sumptuous and sexy.
The Grower Series and Tradition Series were on point upon release – wines of incredible harmony and ease of drinking. And so they are now. Have they evolved? Not really. Even the less expensive No.2, a wine for early drinking according to the producer, will prove very long lived. Great fruit power, length and a balance of elements will ensure a long life in the cellar. But they’re good to go now!
The Estate wines are without doubt amongst Australia’s most important Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, completing Victoria’s hegemony over other states with these varietals. Upon release The Larderdark Chardonnay and Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir were a little disjointed and awkward. The intensity of fruit was there and the fruit density incredibly deep, but the wines appeared edgy, not quite harmonised. i remember feeling it was a pity the wines had been released when they had, and that the wines would not receive the reception they deserved.
Curiously, I had an identical experience tasting the 2022 By Farrs, retasted with their distributor six weeks after their initial release. Time in the bottle, even a brief time, can be a beautiful thing. I feel somewhat vindicated as the wines have “fleshed out”. The once precarious precipice imbalance, evolved into a beautiful, seamless Jacquard weave.
Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Marsanne 2022
Harcourt lies within the Bendigo G.I , but lies higher and cooler. Complexity from fruit to texture with notes of brioche, honeysuckle, yellow peach, citrus marmalade, lemon juice, zest, fresh hay, mint, sage and ginger. Full bodied, chiseled and succulent. Luxurious and fleshy, yet without fat or flab. Gloriously textured, controlled opulence and a linear, rapier like, citrus inflected acid drive that nourishes and draws out the palate. Incredible wine and a benchmark of the varietal.
Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022
It’s not everyday that you are able to taste a chardonnay (one third) with Marsanne and Roussanne making up the rest of the blend. According to Remi, the components are selections of the various ferments that are the most fruit forward. Rich, luscious, full bodied and wildly complex. Honeysuckle, yellow fruits, preserved and fresh citrus, ginger, buttered toast, summer honey, sandalwood, compost and Serrano. Gloriously opulent, nothing zany, just pure hedonistic elements. Balanced beautifully, plenty of zing, long, viscous and textured.
Place of Changing Winds Syrah No. 2 2022
A blend of Heathcote and Harcourt fruit and supposedly the ‘entry’ level, but if can find a more beautiful and detailed Syrah at this price, let me know. The whole bunch component is high, 70%, and it’s there, with its silken texture, easy flow and sweet spice. Complex compote of hedge and red summer fruits, deliciously sweet and tangy. Just to heap on the pleasure, blood orange and amaro notes with pumice like tannins feathering out. Harmonised, and with great intensity, destined for many years of pleasure.
Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah 2022
The Harcourt vineyard is in the Bendigo G.I. A cooler site with high elevation makes it ideal for Syrah and watch this space; Gamay. One of the country’s leading Syrah’s the wine sees two years in mixed wood and 50% whole bunches. Dark fruits, blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, dark cherry, fresh compost, sweet spice, soy, pink peppercorn, porcini and mint. Medium bodied, with a deep core of brooding fruit. Mineral, granitic, too fine to be ferrous. Silky, serpentine with a freshwater flow and then the finest, sweet/savoury tannins. Buy in magnums if possible, and serve at Christmas.
Place of Changing Winds Heathcote Syrah 2021
Superficially an outsider in the range, coming from classic Heathcote Cambrian soil, known for producing wines of incredible richness and power. But it’s not an outsider, the power harnessed and controlled by the best in the business. Certainly the Heart of Darkness of the range; the richest, most dangerous, darkest and deepest wine. Masses of dark fruit, soy, blood orange, coal fire and mineral, with a rounder, sexier shape. A sense of controlled opulence, the rich curtain of fruit balanced with powdery tannins.
Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022
An homage to the late, great Maurice O’Shea who famously blended Pinot Noir and Shiraz. And so this is, 60% Syrah coming off Harcourt and Heathcote, and Pinot Noir from the estate vineyard in Macedon. Notes of licorice, five spice, blackberry, blueberry, sweet cherry, chocolate, clove, cumin, fresh herbs and potpourri. Even flow, the fruit so bright and intense, a wine that smiles, and you can’t but help smile with it. Very complex, detailed and joyous, the sheer power of flavour is incredible, but there’s that signature of line, flow and control. Serious wine for those of us greedy for life.
Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir 2022
The 2021 was one of the greatest pinot noirs to ever come out of Australia (alas, we sold them all) but the 2022 is just as good. Slightly more high toned, but the fruit is still a mix of sweet, tangy black and red fruits. Wildly complex, a wine from the northern climes of the Cote d’Or with its truffles, charcuterie, blueberry, fresh compost, clove, aniseed, rhubarb, soy, sandalwood and peat. Rich, dense and that sense of effortless power. Once awkward, this is now confident, seamless, every sip a new mystery uncovered. No tasting note will do it justice, there’s just too much to talk about, so beautifully absorbing it is. The scaffold of structure is wrapped in flavour, it’s like you don’t even know it’s there. If any bottles are still around in fifty years, I bet they will be singing. Wines like this deserve their own appellation, for there really is nothing like it in Australia.
