Place of Changing Winds Heathcote Syrah 2021

Superficially an outsider in the range, coming from classic Heathcote Cambrian soil, known for producing wines of incredible richness and power. But it’s not an outsider, the power harnessed and controlled by the best in the business. Certainly the Heart of Darkness of the range; the richest, most dangerous, darkest and deepest wine. Masses of dark fruit, soy, blood orange, coal fire and mineral, with a rounder, sexier shape. A sense of controlled opulence, the rich curtain of fruit balanced with powdery tannins. Waters Wine Co

The Heathcote syrah now spends an extra year ageing – all up, 33 months; the first year matured in Stockinger barrels and concrete, then into one 2000L Stockinger cask. Good decision as the tannins are resolved and the wine feels complete. Wonderfully aromatic, from florals, dark fruit and warm spices to some charcuterie notes – think bresaola. The full-bodied palate unfurls all savoury, rich with some bitter dark chocolate and a texture of pomace. Complex and detailed, flavours build, and it finishes long. Impressive. 95 points – Halliday Wine Companion

This wine is now released with an extra year’s aging. It comes from an east-facing plot of 20+-year-old vines rooted in the red Cambrian soils of the Mount Camel Range in Heathcote’s north. Although this sub-region can produce some of Heathcote’s most refined wines, it is still an area that lends itself to growing powerful Syrah, so it gets an additional year in cask. The 2021 spent its first year in a range of Stockinger cask and concrete tank before being blended to one 2,000-litre Stockinger cask for the remainder of its maturation. It was bottled at the end of November 2023 after 33 months’ aging. It is a gorgeous, dark-fruited expression of this famous region. At 13% alcohol, it is in no way heavy and, in fact, is quite the “refreshing” contrast to many wines released from the area. Only around 10% new oak used.