Rob Hall is a Yarra Valley local, growing up in Healesville and working his entire vinous life in the region. From large operations such as Punt Road to the most revered of all, 10 years at Mount Mary, before going it alone in 2014. Working for different producers not only broadens your technical ability, but offers opportunities unforeseen.
After tasing through his wines, I asked Rob if there was something in the wings, a passion project if you will.
“I love Champagne. Trying a bottle of Cedric Bouchard’s Roses de Jeanne, I thought, let’s see if I can do something like that. So I made one barrel of Pinot Noir, off the Harriet’s vineyard. I didn’t know how well it would turn out, and with one barrel, I wasn’t even going to label it. Something just for me and my mates. Nine months in barrel, on lees, full malo, zero dosage before tirage and hand disgorged. You wouldn’t believe it, but I learned to make sparkling at Kellybrook, where I went after Mount Mary, to work with a mate. We didn’t have any mechanised equipment, so everything, from riddling to disgorgement was done by hand. We couldn’t even freeze the necks for tiraging. You have to be careful, but I got good at it”.
I wondered how many Champenoise could still do it. I asked how good it was, knowing from Rob that straight answers are all you’re going to get. Was it as good as Cedric Bouchard?
“Its not as concentrated as the Bouchard wines, but it’s pretty good”.
The understatement of the century. It’s absolutely amazing.
There is a lot of wine coming out of the Yarra. The region’s proximity to Melbourne has ensured a rich market for its wines, that are often expensive. Check out the price for land and you’ll see why. Rob’s parents have a small vineyard, the Harriet’s Vineyard, facing south/south west, 8 acres planted to equal parts pinot noir and chardonnay. Like most producers, he sources grapes from other vineyards, including the great Full Moon and Nenagh Park vineyards. His estate range of wines, pinot noir, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, are usually a blend of at least 2 vineyards, including de-classified barrels from the more vaunted sites. Rob likes to work with multiple ferments, even from the same vineyards,
“…just to give me blending options and complexity. The best barrels will receive their single vineyard designations, but I’ll also use some of those best barrels in the regional blends to bump up their quality”.
Winemaking is simple. For the reds, whole bunches are used, but it is always dependent on vintage and vineyard. Rob likes to use whole bunches when he can, but is not dogmatic, explaining that you have to be careful.
Every year, clone and site is different, so I don’t go into a vintage with any expectations. I wait and taste, before making a decision.
The different ferments enable a a tapestry of approaches. Some ferments will see whole bunches, extended maceration, greater use of press wine and so on. Sulphur is only used at bottling. Rob likes to complete the wines by October, wanting to capture the freshness of the vintage. All wines undergo malolactic fermentation and receive absolutely no acid additions, a rarity in the Valley.
The whites are whole bunch pressed and naturally fermented. Like the reds, a variety of ferments are used for blending and complexity. Some will receive up to 24 hours of skin contact, for structure and mouthfeel. Full malolactic, no sulphur until bottling, no acid additions, and a light fining if Rob thinks it will improve the wine. Barrels are almost always used, a new one thrown in, not for flavour, just when one becomes too old. The barrels are all French and 500litres and impart very little flavour or textural impact on the wine. Both colours undergo their ferments and ageing in barrels on full lees and this process ensures oak integration.
You cannot help but notice the simplicity of Rob’s labels. Wines not tasted blind are naturally subjected to scrutiny by the eyes.
“I wanted the labels to be clear and simple, purveyors of information. The wines are for you to judge. Labels are just a distraction”.
The estate range are blends, and offer a regional perspective unsurpassed, and matched only by the wines of Shaun Crinion of Dappled. There are a lot of Yarra Valley varietal wines in and around the $30 mark, but none, none as good as Shaun and Rob’s.
The single vineyard sources will be well known to many Yarra Valley aficionado’s, but the estate wines offer a level of complexity without equal at their price points. The Harriet’s Vineyard, like all vineyards, is unique, but it is only Rob who uses the grapes here. For me it is his most important wine. Both the pinot noir and chardonnay are remarkable, complex and mouth filling, seemingly classic, yet utterly unique. For me, a new Yarra Valley expression.
You really don’t need to spend big to drink greatness. The wines are so modestly priced that they are accessible to just about all wine lovers. And for Rob, this is a moral issue.
“I know what goes into wine, in terms of cost. Pricing a wine heavily, just for the sake of it, just because you can, goes against the spirit of it. I don’t want to see people having to save up to buy my wine”.
Amen to that.
Rob Hall Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2023
A blend of Harriet’s and the Full Moon Vineyards. The 2 vineyards and multiple ferments have created a delicious and extremely complex wine. Grapefruit, fresh and preserved lime, brioche and Vietnamese mint. Richly flavoured, medium bodied, with an interwoven spine of acidity and subtle oak. Oatmeal, nectarine, yellow peach and spice combine with a peach skin texture and salty minerality. Detailed, layered, curvaceous and with great movement and freshness. Unbelievable value.
Rob Hall Harriet’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2022.
Different picks, different press fractions and different ferments have created a vinous ensemble of incredible richness and complexity. Clearly a great site, there is so much volume and freshness, without heaviness. Notes of cashew, nutmeg, brioche, zest of citrus, fresh citrus, orange blossom, ginger and Anzac biscuit. Deep, vinous and luscious the palate oozing acacia honey, minerals, clotted cream,yellow flowers, mustard seed, fennel sees and orchard fruits. Dialled up curves, textural and savoury with a laser guided line of acidity piecing the palate, front to back.
Rob Hall Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2023
Ensembled from some of the Yarra’s finest vineyards, including Full Moon, Nenagh Park, Willowlake, Boat O’Craigo and Harriet’s, so it’s not hard to see how this is as good as it is. Terrific vibrant aromatics of violets, lavender, blackberry, blueberry, mulberry, rhubarb, licorice and blueberry. Sweetness and tang, with real volume and dimension. Sweet and Savoury Middle Eastern Spice and long firm tannins. So much deliciousness and downright seriousness. Best in the Valley.
Rob Hall Harriet’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023
If the regional pinot noir has lifted aromatics, then the Harriet’s has just entered Formula One. Blood orange, Amaro, Turkish Delight, rhubarb, cola, poached plum and sweet summer fruit compote. The palate is luxurious and hedonistic! Sweet and savoury Middle Eastern spices, aniseed, cherry cola, blackcurrant, blackberry and sweet and tangy red fruits. Volume, richness and dimension with lovely curve and sultry exoticism. Layered flavours and fabulous textural complexity, all cashmere and silk, finishing serious and firm. Pleasure is serious and this is serious pleasure.
Rob Hall Yarra Valley Cabernets 2023
A classic blend of 62/32/6% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Classic Yarra Valley Cabernet, of the old school Claret style. Cola, cassis, blackberry, fenugreek and mint aromatics. Fluid, very cool and easy flow. Medium bodied, pure and supple, with subtle wood spice, dark fruits, sage, violets, squid ink and beautifully interwoven skin tannin. As with all the Yarra Valley range, that sense of delicious seriousness, pleasure not being taken for granted. Astonishing value.
