Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Marsanne Roussanne 2022

Harcourt lies within the Bendigo G.I , but lies higher and cooler. Complexity from fruit to texture with notes of brioche, honeysuckle, yellow peach, citrus marmalade, lemon juice, zest, fresh hay, mint, sage and ginger. Full bodied, chiseled and succulent. Luxurious and fleshy, yet without fat or flab. Gloriously textured, controlled opulence and a linear, rapier like, citrus inflected acid drive that nourishes and draws out the palate. Incredible wine and a benchmark of the varietal. Waters Wine Co

As you’d expect from a blend of marsanne/roussanne, it’s full of honeysuckle, pear skin phenolics and gorgeous texture, with white stone fruit, blanched almonds, ginger powder and oak spices. It’s a little smoky, toasty with nutty lees, and everything is contained by a savoury overlay. Full bodied, luscious without being weighty. It’s rather moreish – you’ll keep coming back to it. 95 points – Halliday Wine Companion

This comes from the same vineyard as the Harcourt Syrah. As always, the grapes were picked flavour ripe, pressed gently and sent straight to barrel (500- and 228-litre) and 220-litre Wineglobe for fermentation and aging. Malolactic conversion happened naturally. After 12 months in cask and Wineglobe, the wine was racked to tank for an additional eight months’ maturation before being bottled at the end of November 2023. It has the power and richness of previous releases, yet with good vibrancy thanks to Harcourt’s soils, the cooler year and the inclusion of good levels of Roussanne in the blend. It will certainly age, gaining more honeyed characters, but it’s delicious now.

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