Great producers define their wine regions and grand vineyards or no, they make the best of what they have. Goisot is always lumped into the broader paradigm of Burgundy, which is of course true, but what’s the point in trying to compare wines as far afield as Chablis to those of the Cote d’Or? Varietals are the same, but the wines are utterly different and it’s these differences that keep life interesting, and delicious.
Don’t buy Goisot then because they are great value Burgundy. They are very different to Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet or even Chablis, which all share the same soils and are only a few kilometres from Goisot’s vineyards. Killers on the fringe of the world’s most obsessed-over wine region.
Buy Goisot because they are beautiful, and different, rooted within their own soils and traditions. And they are great value too!
Goisot’s American importer, Polaner Selections, really nailed it with their description…
The whites are fresh, pure, sleek and full of energy. The Sauvignon Blanc and Fie Gris are simply some of the best in the world, sharing similar traits with Loire Chenin Blanc and Rheingau Riesling. Offered a bottle of Sancerre, or Pouilly-Fume, I would not hesitate to grab the Goisot. The Chardonnay is multi-faceted, coiled, mineral and intense. A glance at Chablis perhaps, the florality of Puligny and the flesh of St Aubin.
The Pinot Noir here is singular, complex, supple, detailed, elegant and with a silken texture. Flashes of appellations throughout the entire Cote d’Or, a marriage of Volnay’s angles and Gevry’s earthy exoticism. All in all, they are the perfect range of food wines. They have a profile to match a wide variety of foods, ridiculous value for money and a quality to rival the finest wines from anywhere.
From old vines ranging in age from 50 to 100 years. I love that it’s not trying to be Chardonnay. An Aligote of tingling freshness and mouthwatering texture. Mineral, homemade lemonade, ruby grapefruit, white peach, apricot, pear and ginger. Super energy, intense and controlled. Terrific bistro white.
100% Sauvignon Blanc. One of my favourite white wines, which is saying something as we don’t normally drink Sauvignon Blanc. Intense bouquet of white flowers, white peach, apricot, cherry, plum, mint and blackcurrant. Fleshy, textural and pure, the palate cut through with herbal notes, smoke, minerals, savoury spice and a chalky close. Rippling with energy, power and layers and layers of flavour and texture. I have never had an old bottle as I have never been able to keep my hands off it, but this will certainly gain interest over at least a decade. Great food wine, extremely versatile with company and food. Absolute must buy.
100% Fie Gris. A great vintage for Goisot, full of pristine ripe fruit and cut with tension. Ruby grapefruit, nectarine, fig, preserved lime and spice. Intense and full bodied, flecked with savoury spice, apple strudel and Victoria plum. Complex textural profile, supple and round, with an almost electric charge of chalk. Who said white Burgundy? Awesome stuff.
Chardonnay, in case you were wondering. 2018 delivering that extra bit of marbled flesh. High toned bouquet of spring jasmine, lemon, lime, white peach, fig and grapefruit. Tightly wound, textured and almost opulent. Very complex fruit profile, with cherry and plum, dusting the citrus and stone fruit core. The chalky texture runs all the way through the palate, defining the structure. Acidity, is Riesling like, piquant, growing in presence, closer to the close. The most versatile Chardonnay on the market and utterly delicious.
Stunning bouquet, worried I might impale my nose on the glass. White and yellow flowers, mint, green apple, white peach, butter, lime and blackcurrant. Such a statement from Goisot combining vitality, weight of flesh, signature chalk and salt. Incredible complexity with some darker fruits of paw paw and apricot, dusted with fennel and rhubarb. Immense carry of seaweed, salty, mineral grip. Unbelievable. Puligny Montrachet meets Chablis.
It may be Chablis, but more importantly, this is Goisot. The most expressive of the whites, with yellow peach, apricot, plum, jasmine, honeysuckle and sage. Seductive, round in shape, yet chiseled. Balanced and pure, the least textured of the line up, some wood spice and minerals to close. Very seductive, almost aristocratic in its gentle caress of flavour and texture. Beautiful.
Super fine, super firm, just super. Red fruits of plum, dried cranberry and redcurrant, wood spices and violets. It’s firm and powerful, the tannins almost chewy. I like that they’re not silk! Lots of mouthfeel and texture and although the fruit is perfectly sweet, it still manages to retain plenty of lift and buoyancy. Absolute bargain Pinot Noir.
Very complex aromas of blueberry, blackberry, plum, cocoa, black cherry and clove. Medium bodied, you can just imagine the perfection of the fruit, begging to be picked. Feels luxurious, languid and effortless, with a silken caress. The palate carries the aromas, but also with mulberry, autumn leaves and not too bitter chocolate. Graceful and thoroughly beautiful.