Always one of our favourite releases of Australian wine, Traviarti has established itself as one of the country’s foremost Nebbiolo producers. Tiny vineyards alas sell through their wine quickly but here there are two wines from 2023, Chardonnay and the Rosso (93% Nebbiolo, 7% Barbera) and the 2022 Nebbiolo.
Small producers have the disadvantage of not being able to hedge, or draw fruit from multiple vineyards. Larger growers are able to capitalise on great vintages and in poorer vintages, to rigorously sort through their grapes and vineyards, for the best possible results. In Traviarti’s case, their tiny vineyard is managed organically and with meticulous attention to detail, in a fashion just not possible with larger producers. Not always obvious, smallness has its advantages too, creating more distinct wines that better reflect the vicissitudes of vintages. The Traviarti new release (this is our fourth) is always different form one year to the next. Delicious, but different.
Great sites are great not only for the quality of their wines, but for their consistency; yielding quality even in the most trying of conditions and with only the very finest flavours, shapes and textures not found anywhere else. This is yet another beautiful set of wines from Traviarti.
The Chardonnay is just about the closest example of Chablis to be found in Australia. The Rosso is a bit juicier this year and the tannins a little looser, perfect for earlier drinking and a greater variety of food. This year’s Nebbiolo, the 2022, is the most ‘different’ from previous years, possessing darker fruits, more rugged outlines and softer, more resolved tannins. Like I said, every year is different, yet the unique characteristics of single sites become more apparent with some bottle aging and to a degree, slip the shawl of vintage.
Aged in 600 litre Stockinger demi muids, it’s a testament to the richness and depth of fruit that the oak plays only a supporting role. 2023 is a cool, wet vintage and this is looking very Chablis-like, with its silky texture, mineral grip, oyster shell and long line of salinity. Medium bodied, rounder in shape than previous iterations and a gentleness of palate that’s so delightful. Such ease of drinking, poised, with that impression of nothing forced, all the elements balanced. Gardenia, grapefruit, cashew, melon, Sicilian olive, subtle oak spice and snuffbox peach. As savoury as it is fruity with lovely gentle acidity ensuring freshness.
A very different expression this year, 2023 being cool and wet; rounder, softer and juicier. Blackberry, cassis, plum, dark cherry and raspberry, with a savoury squeeze of fennel, bay leaf and dried flowers. Is there an evolution in style, or is it the vintage? I’m thinking the latter. The more gentle structure a product of the year, rather than a deliberate toning down of those gripping Traviarti tannins. Balanced and. like the Chardonnay, effortless and poised. Approachable now, certainly, but that long flavour and inherent balance will ensure even better things to come over the next 5 years or more.
The estate’s emblematic wine and without a doubt, one of the best Australian Nebbiolo’s. I love the acceptance of vintage and site. Every year this wine (and the others for all that) is different, embracing the vintage conditions and the vagaries of site. This is much burlier and more rugged compared to the Mezzo Nebbiolo of the same year, and will take a few years for all the elements to fully integrate. Darker fruits of blackberry, blackcurrant, cola, aniseed, raspberry and dried flowers. Deep palate, rich and mineral, with a ferrous and compost element I have not detected in previous vintages. Great width, hints of charcuterie and pungent herbs. Tannins and acid resolved, the long, long finish is all fruit, indicating a great vintage for this wine. Structurally unique, the wine so buoyant and open, yet its frame so gentle. There are no straight lines here, just sensual curves and a mysterious melange of flavour and texture as every sip is different from the last. Get it while you can.
