Chianti Classico is one of the least understood wine denominations. Most of us, if asked where and what it is, would say something like ‘it’s the original part of Chianti’, or ‘the best Chianti’s are Classicos’. Although these statements may be true, it doesn’t really tell us much about the wines, producers or unique geographical factors that make them worth seeking out. And unlike the grand names of Bordeaux, Burgundy and to a lesser extent Piedmont, the best producers aren’t household names. Indeed, the literature on Italian wines in general is woeful and the region and its advocates have and still market themselves poorly.
If, as a well travelled wine lover you were able to name five great Chianti Classico producers, or say, name all the subzones of Chianti Classico, then you would know more about the region than just about anyone selling wine. So where should we start? What is the producer that is grand enough, classic enough, typical enough, and offers value enough to begin our exploration of Chianti Classico and its subzones? There is one from Gaiole – Badia a Coltibuono.
Gaiole is a subzone and it’s important to note that all the subzones have a maddeningly eclectic range of topography, geology and aspect. Gaiole in particular. The notion of cru’s is virtually unknown here, but what unites all fine wine anywhere is choosing the producer over their geography, and in the luckiest of circumstances, great producers coupled with the finest vineyards, craft the best wines.
Badia a Coltibuono is one of the oldest wine estates in the world, tracing back their history for over 1000 years. Like the best suburbs in your favourite city, the beginnings are invariably where the most sought after land is. The wines are the epitome of Gaiole. Graceful, refined, high toned and very long lived. Sangiovese can be coarse with a light body, tart fruits, stalky texture and sandpaper tannins. Badia’s wines have long, livered tannins, interwoven acidity and ripe, but not sweet, fruit. Medium bodied, even the Reserva is measured, the palate expansive – bow drawn but never broad.
Lovers of decorous Claret, ethereal Burgundy and the velvet caress of Barbaresco must surely taste, drink and be attuned to Chianti Classico. Badia a Coltibuono has entered my life at a stage where I love the scent of classicism and lightness of touch. Flavours that are pure and translucent, fine textures, notes of the garden, absorbed abundant tannins and a presence that lingers long and encourages reflection.
Badia a Coltibuono Cultusboni Cetamura Chianti 2020
All of Badia a Coltibuono’s Chiantis share the same DNA and it is evident throughout all the wines. Classic, poised and balanced. Certainly the softest, plumpest and fruit driven of the three releases, with less tertiary elements. Red fruits, dried flowers, tobacco and the lovely skinsy Sangiovese tannins that hold it all together. Perfect bistro/restaurant wine. Waters Wine Co
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2019
Morello cherry, lavender, plum, tobacco leaf, sandalwood and blood orange aromatics. Medium bodied and refined, a very well balanced Chianti Classico that is nonetheless branded with powdery, skinsy tannins. Terrific volume of fruit, plush and sensual mouthfeel and piquant acidity that is as sculptural as it is moreish. One of the best Classico’s we’ve tasted and excellent value. Waters Wine Co
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 2017
Sangiovese as Burgundy. Lifted aromatics of red and dark cherry, dried cranberry, raspberry, lavender, geranium and sage. Expansive palate, with an almost effortless poise. Medium bodied, vivid, the tannins absorbed by the longer wood ageing, making them longer, sculptural and melting. Wonderful interplay of fresh, crunchy red fruits, earth, herbs, spice and flowers. Very long carry, aided by tangy acids, that melt and meld into fruit and texture. Amazing wine and as with the entire range, an absolute bargain. Waters Wine Co
