Of all Australian wine regions, Tasmania (if we are still able to lump the state together), is touted as the most exciting. It’s certainly popular and the price of grapes is the most expensive in the country. New regions present a new hope and enthusiasm, but great vineyards and their styles take generations of application. When I first tasted the wines of Rivulet with owner/winemaker Keira O’Brien I was struck by the intensity of flavour, breadth, length of carry and their unforced nature.
Keira O’Brien works as a contract winemaker and has seen the best, and no doubt the worst, of what the state has to offer. There are few places in the world where winemakers can gain such a broad perspective of their region. Vineyards, varietals and the temperaments of fashion, to enable the narrowing of field and identifying of the best parcels of fruit. And what to do with such perfect fruit? Classicism of course.
There is so much good, if unexciting and expensive, Tasmanian wine. Rivulet, however, is the opposite – a single phrase doesn’t capture their magic as they are all different, perfectly crafted according to the individual strengths of the site. To boot they’re terrific bargains, at least for now. For us, this is the best new entrant to come out of the state in years.
Rivulet Forestier Chardonnay 2021
From one of Tasmania’s coolest and most late-ripening vineyards, the 2021 Forestier Chardonnay is a wine of power, weight and tingly energy. Lifted and glorious aromatics of melon, kiwifruit, white peach, lime zest, flint and fresh hay. Sleek and full bodied, the creamy notes folded into a huge volume of rippling fruit. Very intense, with integrated oak elements providing a subtle frame. The brightness never wavers, preserved lime and subtle salinity driving the carry. One of the most exciting chardonnays from Tasmania and as classic as the flavours are, distinct. A real triumph. Waters Wine Co
Rivulet Burnside Pinot Noir 2021
Lifted, with intense aromatics of red, bramble and black fruits, lavender, five spice and sandalwood. Intense and full bodied and, it has to be said, hedonistic, combining immense power, freshness and drive. Very complex fruit profile, mixed with aniseed, clove and long, melting tannins. Absolutely stunning wine, the 40% whole bunches are ripe and integrated, drawing out the flavour and texture. Firms up towards the close with grape and oak tannins lending authority, structure and precision. There are lots of good pinot noirs coming out of Tasmania, but few as good as this. Incredible value for money. Waters Wine Co
Rivulet Priory Pinot Noir 2021
Extremely limited as all the Rivulet wines are – I understand there are less than 700 bottles of this beauty. Explosive, lifted aromas of red fruits, blackberry, blueberry, smoke, Provence herbs and mashed pomegranate. Medium to full bodied, it takes some time for the flavours to emerge, but as they do, they coat the palate with cherry, plum, cranberry, pomegranate, cassis, thyme and clove. Structural, the 40% new oak swallowed by the wealth of flavour and texture, which provides a powerful frame for the future. Fine, but firm tannins, utterly different wine to the Burnside, it’s fascinating to taste them side by side. The entire range overdelivers. Waters Wine Co
