I have a love of sleek, bright, intense reds. Lip smacking, long on the palate, full flavoured, savoury tannins, medium bodied and angular frames. The sort of red that will match most budgets, foods, seasons and company. Such is Albino Rocca’s 2019 Barbera d’Alba.
Barbaresco producers will always tell you that their Langhe Nebbiolo, or the estate’s barbera and dolcetto are for most moments. The serious stuff is too big and powerful, not to mention expensive for a Tuesday night pasta. And it’s true of course. But as far as I’m concerned, simple Tuesday night pasta is a serious affair, and I want to be delighted no matter what I’m having, any night of the week.
Fashions of Barbera
Barbera, of all Piedmontese reds is the most pliable. Oak, new or old, big or small, steel, or concrete. Picked late or early, punch downs, whole berry, you name it – Barbera can be fashioned in a multitude of ways and I like all fashions. Like most Barbaresco producers, Albino Rocca fashion more elegant expressions than their Barolo counterparts. The clay, sand and limestone soils of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio and Castagnito certainly coax flavour intensity and fine angular structures.
Tannic perfection
Intense and vivid aromatics of clove, aniseed, licorice, blackberry, nutmeg, raspberry, fennel, thyme and cut flowers. Absolutely no hint of fading fading colour, it’s as bright as ever and the palate reinforces this. Plush, juicy and intense. Lavender, tobacco, blueberry, punnets of the freshest red fruits, super bright and shimmering. Mouthwatering, mineral and sinewy tannic finish. Those tannins! Most Australian producers would have a lighter finish, a softer touch. But I love these authoritative, framing tannins. Perfection at the table.
