Chablis’ surge in popularity has come as a bit of surprise. Recently, a Sommelier told me that “it’s the new sav blanc”, and she seemed gratified with this, commenting that it was more versatile and food friendly than the famed Marlborough white. True, I thought, but grander wines come at a price.
Chablis is often expensive and usually lacks the decadence of white Burgundy or the immense breadth of presence I associate with German Riesling. So it was with great pleasure that we tasted the 2020 wines of Domaine Gueguen.
2020 is another fine vintage and although regarded as a “classic” and therefore less concentrated, I thought that not only were Gueguen’s 2020’s more concentrated than their 2019’s, but finer and more structured too. Their vineyards lie in the warmer southern reaches of the appellation, which may explain their fleshiness, finessed weight and sleek structure. Juicy and vibrant fruit profiles, soft textures, buoyant palate and piquant freshness, these are some of the best value Chablis that we’ve tasted.
Domaine Gueguen Petit Chablis 2020
Lovely intense bouquet of preserved lemon, cream, white flowers, white peach and melon. This is very concentrated for a Petit Chablis, with fruit tingle freshness, impressive mid-palate flesh. Gorgeous softness, supple feel in the mouth driving carry with lime and cardamon. Elemental, all the components complimenting each other, threaded together and balanced. Fabulous value.
Deeper core and more concentrated than the Petit Chablis. Finessed power, for all its depth, buoyant, layered, tensile and complex. Terrific width that pushes to the outer reaches of the palate with green apple, apple strudel, lime zest, wood spice and length. So long in the mouth, and not just acidity and spice, but holding its form for at least a minute. Perfect balance of elements. So much to love!
