The 2024 autumn releases from Bubb and Pooley include the first release off their own vineyard, the WKR Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 and WKR Pinot Noir 2022. The négoce wines (bought fruit, not from their vineyards), a Chardonnay, Pinot and Riesling are sourced from fruit in the Coal River Valley and are quite different in style from the WKR range. Both vintages are widely agreed to have produced excellent, incisive highly energetic wines, partly due to the exceptionally long, cool growing seasons.


WKR Vineyard

Vintages aside, the WKR vineyard produces wines of great colour, fabulously abundant fruit and mid palate flesh. Deep structures of seemingly moderate acid and rich, ripe, resolved and ultimately silky tannins. Layered sweet fruit interwoven with flowers, spices, herbs and fresh earth combine with a palate of great width, curve and effortless flow. I was surprised to find their vinification very similar to the négoce wines, yet the styles so different. The elevage, or maturing process is a little longer for the WKR range and I would imagine fermentation temperatures are higher, but otherwise not too different.


Best release to date

The release of the 2023 négoce wines (the 2023 Syrah will come a little later and has not been tasted), is the best release to date, whilst upholding the course of style they’ve embarked on. A feature of the vinification is the very short ageing, 5 months for the Riesling, Chardonnay 7 months and 10 months for the Pinot Noir. This is about half the time you could typically expect and is an important clue to the nature of these wines. Intense, compact, chiseled and fresh, and in particular this year, they have judged their fruit picking to perfection. The fruit is abundant, if tightly wound by the very high levels of natural acidity and very low pH. The length, balance and evidence of numbers, indicates an exceptionally long life for these wines.


Patience will be rewarded

Their compact nature didn’t shift a jot after hours of being open, so I would suggest some decent cellaring time if you can wait. I do hope Bubb and Pooley are holding some back for museum releases as they will be sensational and worth the wait. That subtle softening of tone and slightly weightier mid palate had me absolutely sold when I tasted them and convinced that through observation and evolution, this has become one of Australia’s most exciting new wine prospects.


Bubb and Pooley Riesling 2023

From 2 vineyards in the Coal River Valley. Hand picked and whole bunch pressed to tank, the fermentation stopped preserve a small amount of balancing residual sugar. Aged in a 2000L concrete egg for 5 months on fine lees. Very similar to the wines of the Saar in the Mosel. Very complex aromatics pf lime, blackcurrant, cherry, green apple, grapefruit, gardenia, orange blossom and minerals. Rich and deep, very powerful, compact and broad, the palate shaped by masses of texture, opulent fruit, plunging acidity and the faintest hint of sweetness. With a pH of 3.05 and 9.23 TA, the Bubb+Pooley riesling is incredibly stable and structured. The length of flavour guaranteeing an incredibly long life. Incredible wine.


Bubb and Pooley Chardonnay 2023 

Fermented and aged in 25% new French oak and spherical concrete for 7 months. High toned aromas of brioche, grapefruit, passionfruit, mango, tangy lime and frangipani. Rich, broad, tense, focused and coiled, the palate marked by incredible intensity and bright acidity. Fresh, vibrant and packed with energy, the broadness across the palate is cut through with citrus zest, fine quality oak, cream and minerals. A wine of enormous aging potential. Keep your hands off it if you can!


Bubb and Pooley Pinot Noir 2023

From three different vineyards across the Coal River Valley with multiple clonal material. Handpicked and wild fermented with 20% whole bunches, with daily pump overs and up to 4 weeks of skin contact, a significant period of time for pinot noir. Fermented and matured in concrete, tulip shaped and 90% French oak, 10% new for 10 months. Vibrancy, in every sense, the calling card of Bubb + Pooley the short elevage emphasising the energy and fruit. Aromas of blackcurrant, liqueur cherry, blueberry, liquorice, violets and dried flowers. Rich, tight, coiled and intense, there’s volume, but the structure is fierce, with savory spice flecked tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Huge potential.


Bubb and Pooley Syrah 2022

Not the darkest Syrah/Shiraz I’ve ever seen, perhaps more evidence of Tasmania’s ambition and difference with their mainland counterparts. Stunning aromatics of Hoisin, Chinese Five Spice, blackberry, cassis, rhubarb, sweet raspberry, lavender soap, fennel and camphor. Pure and translucent, sensual and slick. Concentrated, elegant and mineral. Snaking shape, threading flavour and texture together. Spice flecked the whole way through. The whole bunches are less showy on the palate, compared to the aromatics, enabling the fruit to really sing. Smooth flavours, so long and persistent. Very fine indeed.


Bubb and Pooley WKR Pinot Noir 2022

From the Bubb and Pooley vineyard, White Kangaroo Road (WKR), planted on their own rootstocks in 2000. Fermented with 20% whole bunches and aged in tulip shaped concrete and new French oak for 11 months. Incredibly complex, layered and deep, with lifted florals blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, pomegranate, licorice, roses and sweet cherry. Rich, tight and coiled, the fruit frothing at the structure, positively bursting at the seams. Fleshy too, curvy and seductive, the tannins savoury and rich. Stunning pinot noir, destined for a very long life.


Bubb and Pooley WKR Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

There isn’t a lot of Cabernet grown in Tasmania, but after tasting the range at Domaine A and Bubb + Pooley I would hope other growers take notice and start planting. 2022 is the inaugural release of Cabernet Sauvignon off the White Kangaroo Road (WKR) vineyard, the home of Bubb and Pooley. Expressive aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry, licorice, clove and cola. Deep and concentrated with sweet red fruits, ink, soy, complex sweet and dark spices and rich textural tannins. Mouthwatering and silky, the tannins long and with great width. 


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