I must have some kind of unconscious bias towards Yarra Valley wine. To myself and in general terms, I almost never think of anything positive to say, but when I think of Australia’s finest wines relative to price I think of Dappled, Rob Hall and Gembrook Hill, all Yarra Valley and all fabulous. It’s nice to give yourself a wake up call before someone else does it for you!
Gembrook Hill, and by extension The Wanderer Wines from Andrew Marks, are a high point nationally of what can be achieved qualitatively, offering wine lovers a glimpse of greatness at affordable prices. Egalitarianism is important to me, the more so for having children, getting older and being Australian having “had breathed that air so the knowledge of unfairness were deep in his bone and marrow.” Even now I cannot come to grips with wine producers, particularly Australian family wineries, charging exorbitant prices. So let’s all do ourselves a favour and celebrate Gembrook Hill.
Planted in 1983, the vineyard a miniscule 5 hectares comprises chardonnay, pinot noir and unusually sauvignon blanc. A site of hard labour, all done by hand, with cuttings from the original vines used for new plantings, alongside the recently introduced aromatic and structured MV6 clone. The site is unusual for the Yarra Valley, being cooler with higher rainfall and deeper volcanic soils. Combine this with largely unknown clonal material, that is continuously being propagated, and it makes for an utterly unique set of wines.
In terms of winemaking there is nothing unusual here and there needn’t be due to the unique site, unique clonal material, experience and phenomenal skill of Andrew Marks and assistant Shaun Thornton. Wild ferments, aging on lees, no additions except Sulphur and mostly old wood.
The pinot noirs, the calling card here, are spine shiverers; hauntingly aromatic, deeply flavoured, with the purest red and black fruit compote, spice notes and serious structure, all silk. Destemming is de rigueur save for the JKM pinot noir, with whole bunches utilised, capturing the virtuosity of the winemaking team and the phenomenal ability of the site to withstand more rigorous winemaking treatment.
Chardonnay is blessedly old school, no early picked sourpuss job-ees here. Tightly structured, yet generous, with a luxury of flesh and extract through the middle, curvaceous and fine acidity cutting the cloth.
Sauvignon Blanc is Loire inspired, not dry white Bordeaux, ageing in old wood on lees tempering the vibrating fruit, whilst adding stuffing, flesh and silk to the lines of flavour. And lastly a sparkling, 100% chardonnay, of astonishing power and concentrated intensity, it is one of the few Australian Blanc de Blancs that demands, no needs time in your cellar to be at its best.
2025 is a fabulous vintage for Gembrook Hill. To look at 2024 and 2025 as a pair and contrast the cooler, more driven 2024’s to the languorous luxury of the warmer 2025 will illuminate much about your own preferences. Both are wonderful and, at this address, some of Australia’s most compelling and affordable fine wines.
For what it’s worth, I have a preference for the 2025’s for the apparent effortlessness of their offering, the clarity and purity of their fruit and the beguiling softness of structure. Such perfect balance and concentrated intensity of flavour will ensure fine drinking for years to come. So, save your money and buy Gembrook Hill. You don’t need to buy the expensively marketed icons, there is an icon right here, quietly battling on.
Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2025
Sauvignon blanc is not many people’s favourite varietal these days, but if you open a bottle of Gembrook Hill 2025, you just might be persuaded otherwise. Sancerre/Pouilly Fume inspired. Wild fermented, aged on lees in old wood for 9 months; simple winemaking, complex results! Soaring aromatics of the freshest and most perfect fruit. Lemons, yellow peach, white plum, passionfruit, cashew, wood spice and gardenia. A wine of incredible tension and balance, tingling with acidity, yet silky, fleshy and rich. A mouthful of delicious, refined energy. It’s not fume blanc, it’s Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc.
A generous, finely wrought Chardonnay in a classic Chablis-inspired style. Aromas of stone fruit, white flowers and subtle nuttiness lead into a palate of real depth and composure. Whole bunch pressed and fermented with solids using wild yeast, then matured in large-format French oak, it feels confidently traditional in the best sense. There is both structure and generosity here — tightly framed, yet with a luxurious core of fruit and extract through the middle. Curvaceous but precise, with fine acidity providing shape and length. A resolutely old-school expression, free from the lean austerity of early-picked styles.
One of Australia’s finest pinot noirs that shames many overpriced icons. As always, simple winemaking; complex results. Destemmed completely, cold soaked and fermented naturally, with 3 weeks on skins (a long time for pinot noir) and matured in French wood, Hogsheads, 20% new. Unfined and unfiltered. Perfume, such perfume. Summer fruit compote, perhaps a bit darker fruited in 2025, but still plenty of English strawberries (the best!), raspberries and cherries. Lovely wood notes, the spice fresh and sweet, a sort of Szechuan mix. Rich, serious intent here, the richness of the vintage captured by the wealth of texture, concentrated flavour, serious colour, serious structure and evenness across the palate; it holds and doesn’t want to let you go. But go it must alas, in a swirling mass of perfume, pillowed squashed berries, velvet caresses and silken ties. A deeply sensual wine of youthful vigour and sagacious adventure.
