The evolution and growth of plantings of lesser-known varietals in Australia is gaining pace. McLaren Vale has been at the forefront, the original disruptor with plantings of southern French, Italian and Portuguese varieties and I’m sure in time, Greek. To think that such an established, dare I say ‘traditional’ wine region was the first to sniff out an alternative future is remarkable.
Saltfleet have embraced the evolution, with a selection of wines that include fiano, chenin blanc, Touriga Nacional and sangiovese, alongside the regional stalwarts of grenache, shiraz and mourvedre.
Tasting through the range is a kind of vinous futurism and history lesson rolled into one. I don’t necessarily believe that alternative varieties are the future. I think the future will look back to other historical periods where vineyards had a greater diversity of plantings, a hedge against the vagaries of the seasons and fashion. Saltfleet’s range is therefore a fabulous snapshot of the region’s origins and its future.
Wine professionals have always drunk differently to punters, but that gap has widened into a gulf over the last 20 years. In my early days of wine as an amateur and professional, there was an alignment in what the public went gaga over and the reviews and opinions of the wine trade.
Saltfleet’s wine style is a dramatic realignment of tastes. The wines are classic; deep luminous colours, bright aromatics, buoyant palates and rich, concentrated flavours. Lovers of the old school would certainly be familiar with the flavours, while lovers of the new school can delight in their freshness, wine pros are able to talk endlessly of the modern winemaking tweaks and offbeat varietals, and finally we can all love the fact that they are absolutely delicious bargains.
Will Fiano become Australia’s most important aromatic variety? I certainly think so, on the evidence of this wine and many others from all over Australia. Gorgeous aromatics, with a very complex fruit profile. Pear, honey, spring jasmine, blackcurrant, cherry and cream. Silky, mouth filling palate, not quite full bodied, but rich nonetheless with a touch of extract, mid palate flesh and delicious tension of butter and chamomile tea. Wonderfully versatile, pairing with anything from battered fish to Thai Green Curry, to Porchetta. One of Australia’s best examples of Fiano.
From a dry grown vineyard planted in 1962. Lovely lifted citrus notes of Clementine Mandarin, citrus blossom, white peach and apricot. Medium bodied, with walnut and stone fruit. Juicy, direct, medium bodied and gently textured, cut through with an acid line that drives and lengthens the palate. Mineral and briny finish, invigorating in a way, and ideally suited to fat Pacific oysters and fresh prawns.
From two vineyards, both dry grown, bush vine cultivated, in sandy soil, sandy to the point of ‘it has to be seen to be believed’. One of the myths of wine is that light soils, sand for example, make for fragrant lighter bodied wines and heavy soils, clay for example, are typically rich and full bodied. Saltfleet’s Grenache is hugely aromatic, vibrantly deep-ishly coloured, with a rich, buoyant palate. Freshness in spades, but phenomenal fruit intensity and powerful flavours. 20% whole bunch, so mace and clove, with dark cherry, mulberry, florist shop and tart red fruit notes. There’s a lovely tension between sweet red fruits and darker more savoury elements, such as baking spices and compost. Wonderful grippy, mouth-watering tannins precise and sensual, such a complete wine, that respects the region’s classicism, whilst looking to the future. Phenomenal value.
Unusually an 80/10/10 split, and it’s interesting to taste the strength of influence that the shiraz and Mataro bring to the wine. I love blends, and believe them to be more pertinent than ever, despite the obsession with single varietal wines. Blends are also an opportunity for a wine producer to demonstrate their skill, or lack of it. All three varietals come through clearly, with blackberry, blueberry, orange zest, tar, smoke, compost, chocolate, cherry and raspberry. Beautifully complex, the most thought-provoking of the reds, the palate generous, plush and silky. Pitch perfect balance of elements, fruit driven to be sure, but the savoury notes creating a lovely tension.
Saltfleet Shiraz 2025
Grown on sandy soils and a statement of McLaren Vale shiraz that would please the most ardent traditonalist and progressive trendy. Some whole bunch notes of mace and clove, with waves of cassis, dark cherry, blueberry, florals, black olive, bitter chocolate, chocolate orange, bitumen and mixed herbs. Full flavoured, with Saltfleet’s signature buoyancy, freshness, mid palate heft and perfectly pitched finish of silken grip. There is strength here, real power, but it’s so flowing and gorgeous that it makes me just want to relax. Affordable fine wine is a mantra of mine, and this has it in spades. What a wine.
One barrel only of McLaren Vale’s top Sangiovese. If you are looking for a Sangiovese that tastes exactly how a Sangiovese should, but nothing like Tuscany, but something like McLaren Vale, then this is it. Destemmed, three weeks on skins and 9 months in seasoned French oak. Such simple winemaking, yielding a gorgeous and detailed wine. Very aromatic, floral, a compote of cherry, cranberry and raspberry, Middle Eastern spices, blueberry and a dusting of herbs. Plush and generous, with freshening citrus zest, cherry and fennel. Smooth, no hard edges, just a lovely flow, with persistent, oozing tannins. Total bargain.
Salfleet Touriga Nacional 2025
The most savoury, compact and restrained wine of the release. It’s very serious and if it was a better-known varietal, would be far more expensive. Complex florals, smoky/earthy notes, Mediterranean herbs, cassis, plum, dark cherry and citrus. Full bodied and tight, the palate slowly unfurling, yet the structure is a lovely corset of fine tannins, piqued acid. Extremely complex palate, throbbing with black olive, dark and sour cherry, blueberry, compost, saltbush, minerals, sweet and savoury spice, and brine. Fascinating wine, detailed, with so many flashes of nuance. Australia’s best value ‘alternative’ red wine? That’s what I’m thinking.
