These are one of our “finds” of 2026.
We first travelled through Burgundy 25 years ago. Meeting producers, tasting wines, asking questions, and receiving answers that were more often than not a shrug of the shoulders. What was telling was the relative simplicity in their thinking and approach.
Keep it simple, stupid
Put simply, if you harvest perfectly ripe grapes from good vineyards, your winemaking approach can be as simple as. There was a pragmatism and an essence of ‘don’t try so hard’.
Fleet wines combines superb vineyard resources and a ‘keep it simple stupid’ approach to winemaking, resulting in some of Australia’s highest quality pinot noirs at mouthwatering prices.
Great fruit
Fleet manage a vineyard in Leongatha, South Gippsland, planted by the great Phillip Jones in 1990, and purchase fruit from some of Victoria’s finest growers. Alongside their own vineyard, it was the wines made off Clare Burder’s Whitlands vineyard that caught my attention. Clare’s vineyard is the state’s highest, producing some of the finest sparklings in the country and a valuable fruit source for artisan winemakers.
Simple, pragmatic approach
Winemaking is simple and pragmatic, varying from wine to wine, vintage to vintage. Ferments are natural, there are no additions save for some sulphur and oak is generally seasoned French oak puncheons (500L). New oak is brought into the stable, blooded in the Lichen range, the fruit from which comes off Clare Burder’s vineyard.
The whites are whole bunch pressed and undergo 100% malolactic fermentation, with regular lees stirring. This is unusual in Australia today, but the fruit is so intense, structured and choc-a-block full of natural acids, that they not only benefit, but remind me of full blooded white Burgundy from the days of old.
Fleet ‘Lichen’ Chardonnay 2026
Our first taste of a still wine off Clare Burder’s vineyard and it is sensational. Immensely expressive in a cool high-toned kind of way with green apple, white peach, white flowers, wood spice, roasted cashews, grapefruit and pithy lime. Fantastic shape and tension, with curve and flesh, balanced by tangy fruit, leesy richness and an incisive tangy acid line. One of the most versatile chardonnays from anywhere, offering genuine value and cruisy deliciousness.
Fleet ‘Lichen’ Pinot Gris 2026
Pinot Gris in its most versatile form. You can pair this with Portuguese, Middle Eastern, Greek, Italian, Australian, whatever you like. From the goodness of the Burder vineyard, fermented for 21 days on skins, hence the gorgeous coppery colour and velvet texture. It’s not skinsy, just that texture, with watermelon, strawberry, tangy cranberry, pear, clotted cream, Middle Eastern spice and all of it driven by that pure high country acid.
Fleet Leongatha Pinot Noir 2025
From a vineyard planted by the great Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip in 1990 and managed by Fleet. 20% whole bunch, 18 day ferment and aged in seasoned French oak puncheons. One of the most ‘Burgundian’ iterations of pinot noir I’ve ever had from Australia. Heady and perfumed with mixed flowers, a compote of red fruits, sweet and tangy, tar, wood spice and fresh compost.
Enveloping, mid weighted and intense, the fruit tensioned by savoury elements of paprika and soy, and a silky texture that firms to velvet. Detailed, complex, multifaceted and above all sensual. Unbelievable value.
Fleet Nostalgia Pinot Noir 2025
Limited to just two puncheons, and it’s almost impossible to believe that this is a selection of the two best puncheons of the Leongatha pinot noir with a longer elevage. Everything about the Nostalgia is darker, deeper, richer. Blackberry, dark cherry, cassis, English summer fruits, tar, Middle Eastern spices, soy and mixed florals. Medium to full bodied, transparent and there’s no heaviness, just headiness and flavour intensity.
Expansive and incisive, the dark fruit glides, corseted by silken straps tied tight and a lick of cashmere. Deeply sensuous, complex and structured, remaining fresh and vibrant for all its hedonism. Unique pinot noir territory here, utterly unlike anything in Australia. Captivating.
