Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2022

“The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin “Mes Cinq Terroirs” comes from the north of the appellation and includes one-third of whole bunches due to the acidity being lower than the Marsannay. It has a beautiful bouquet like last year, pure with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, superb mineralité and vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with dark berry fruit, Earl Grey and light tertiary scents, very cohesive with a persistent finish. This should age extremely well in bottle.” 92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous

“No more than 30 hl/ha after the passage of the hail storm, which also meant that Arnaud had to make careful choices, not necessarily his usual ones, in selecting grapes for whole bunch vinification, just 25-30% overall, with 25% new wood. Mid purple with an elegant bouquet more raspberry than strawberry. Definitely something of a savoury character behind, but the fruit continues all around the palate.” 91-93 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

As all followers of this domaine will know well, this is Mortet’s ‘super-Gevrey’, sourced from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet chose for the distinctive quality of their terroir and plant material. All the vines are at the higher, northern end of the appellation, which dictates the finesse. The vineyards include: En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close by, under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just northeast of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the vines here are over 70 years old); and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border.

Perfectly judged picking dates and moderate yields of 30hl/ha help explain the quality here. Only 25% new barrels were used, and one-third of the fruit was destemmed. This is simply brilliant and would have no problem passing for 1er Cru status (from a top producer!) in a blind line-up. Give it at least five years and you will reap even greater rewards.