Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2021

This is Mortet’s ‘super-Gevrey’, sourced from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet chose for the quality of their terroir and plant material. All the vines are at the northern end of the appellation, which dictates the finesse. The vineyards include: En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close by, under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just northeast of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the vines here are over 70 years old); and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border.

Perfectly judged picking dates and tiny yields of 14 hl/ha help explain the quality on offer here. Only 10 to 15% new barrels were used, and one-third of the fruit was destemmed. This is simply brilliant and would have no problem passing for 1er Cru status (from a top producer!) in a blind line-up.

“The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs comes from parcels in the north of the appellation with 30% whole bunches. Very impressive intensity on the nose, this is well-defined, crushed stone and citrus scents, the former becoming more prominent with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, pixelated in definition, not powerful but tensile on the steely finish. Excellent.” 92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous

“The grapes come from behind the cuverie through to Brochon. Usually the weightiest wines of Gevrey come from this sector. This starts well with a plump fruit but just a little drier than expected on the palate. The elements will all come together and then you have the choice of this more in your face Gevrey or the elegance of Ma Cuvée (under the Arnaud Mortet label). Tiny yields here – maybe the hail made a difference as it came just a week before the flowering.” 92-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy