The Wanderer Yellingbo Chardonnay 2025

$40.00

A very limited offering of only 70 dozen this year. As always, the simplest of winemaking; whole bunched press to old format oak with full solids, wild fermented, occasional stirring and bottled with minimal sulphur. Bright and aromatic, with grapefruit, stone fruits, tangy citrus, lemon peel, cashew and gentle spice. A very even wine, from the initial attack of flavour, through to the close. It’s sinewed, lithe and supremely energetic, the short elevage heightening it’s pulsing resolve, ending with a lightly textured flourish. Balanced, so neat and persistent, auguring well for a very long life.

 

A single-vineyard wine from Yellingbo in the Upper Yarra, barrel-fermented and matured in older French puncheons. Subtle aromas of nectarine, pink grapefruit and lemon curd. Beautifully balanced on a pure-fruited, delicate, chalky-textured and saline palate. Finishes nutty and long. Drink now and over the next four to five years. 95+ points – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion 

 

 

 

 

 

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For those who don’t know Andrew Marks, or the wines of The Wanderer, they are one and the same. These are wines with a pulse – they tingle with energy and intent.

The Chardonnay is intense and angular, driven by razor-sharp acidity and cool, high-toned citrus. It’s beautifully linear, yet now carries something more: a layer of mid-palate flesh and texture that brings real allure. Where earlier vintages felt tightly wound and almost austere, the latest releases strike a more compelling balance – precision still at the core, but with a newfound generosity.

The same evolution is evident in the Pinots. Always defined by floral lift, red fruit tang and fine, grippy tannins, they now show greater depth and breadth. The warmer 2025 vintage has brought more of everything – more aromatic complexity, deeper colour, greater intensity of flavour, and a supple, flowing structure. There’s flesh here now, not excess, but a welcome sense of completeness.

If 2024 hinted at a shift, 2025 confirms it. The Wanderer has moved toward a more expansive, quietly luxurious expression – wines that retain their signature tension and detail, but with softer palates, sweeter fruit, and a seamless sense of balance.

Winemaking remains intuitive and restrained. The Pinots see cold soaks, mostly destemmed fruit, and natural whole-berry ferments, worked gently with pump-overs and hand plunging. They’re then aged in oak (the top cuvée seeing around 30% new), resting on lees for 11 months without fining or filtration. The result is Pinot with perfume, structure, and serious texture.

The Chardonnays are whole-bunch pressed, left to settle overnight, then run to barrel with full solids for wild fermentation – a crucial step for both texture and integration. Aged on lees without stirring and finished with a light filtration, it walks the fine line between clarity and richness with precision.

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