Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022

‘I started with this in 2003 and it’s still something of a mystery to me; it’s a grand cru and I pose questions versus the grand crus here but in the end it’s all about interpretations. Always a surprising wine. The logic is the opposite of Bâtard for harvesting – I wait a little to gain a little depth, I think it benefits from maturity…’

Most of the grapes come from the north-west facing part of En Charlemagne, a choice to avoid too much exuberance. Clear pale colour, a little oak showing at the moment, but even so a touch of exotic fruit alongside the minerals. Quite a weight of white flesh here, a sturdy wine which needs long ageing. Drink from 2029-2036. (92-95) Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, October 2023.