I have sometimes thought of wine as some sort of composition, fruit fermented and crafted by a winemaker whose own tastes and preferences should be an integral part of any wine. For those who value culture, traditions and human identity, a winemaker’s style will tell us a story as priceless as any geographical analysis. I recorded my conversation with Igor of Iggy’s, and it’s clear that the influence of place and personality have become entwined with one another.
Igor’s style is keeping the faith of South Australian wine traditions. Indeed the aromatics and flavours are typical, delicious and familiar. He might love a good bottle of Hermitage, but we aren’t in Hermitage. His European heritage however certainly comes through strongly, from his planting of a tiny 300 Ribolla Gialla vines (Rebula in Slovenia) in the Adeliade Hills, yielding only 583 bottles, to the textural elements in his wines.
Rich and full bodied though his wines are, the tannins are firm and textured, contributing a savoury spice uncommon to the region. The fruit and palate weight is a little dialled back, a surprising level of ‘florality’ and elegance from wine regions known for size and generosity.
Igor doesn’t just want to make a wine typical of the region, or oaky, or spicy, or mineral, rather he wants wines with elemental complexity and harmony. Cold soaks, little new oak, if at all, slightly earlier picks and long macerations are key. Prettiness and power. In one sense they have something in common with “traditional” claret wines of Bordeaux, in that they may have power and strength, yet lack nothing in the way of elegance, complexity, breadth, balance and, most importantly, delicious drinkability. These wines are made in tiny quantities, truly artisanal, and are a wonderful addition to South Australia’s rich vinous tapestry.
Ribolla Giolla in Italian, and certainly made as a homage to Friuli. From a cooler part of the Adelaide Hills, a triangle of 300 vines at the bottom of a slope otherwise planted to Syrah. 40% on skins for 2 months, yet there is nothing orange or skinsy about this. Generous and succulent with yellow flowers, peach skin, dark honey, mustard seed, green melon and dark citrus. Quite full bodied, spicy and savoury with notes of yellow fruit, fresh apricot orange zest and lanolin. The best example to come out of Australia, and from only 3 year old vines. I truly believe this is a ground breaking wine in an Australian context. Serve with rich meats, such as porchetta, roast suckling pig or Balmain Bugs. 583 bottles only.
The second release of this wine for us, the 2022 Deda is a composition of 79% Rousanne and 21% Marsanne. Fuller bodied than the 2021 on account of the greater proportion of Rousanne and warmer vintage conditions. Dark in colour and exotic with yellow peach, pawpaw, winter honey and pear. Rich, mouth-filling and creamy, Igor’s signature spiciness really drives the finish, the acidity buoyant and cleansing. A masterclass for this style, no oiliness, fat or undue richness, crafted into harmony and not tipping over into stylistic generalities. Rich seafood options, roast chicken/turkey and cooked prawns and bitter vegetable dishes. 1341 bottles only.
Iggy H&C Eden Valley Syrah 2021
From 2 vineyards in 2021, after to a “miscommunication” with another vigneron left Iggy stranded without even a barrel worth of fruit. A vintage that has yielded many great wines, and the H&C is the first wine he has made with 100% whole bunch. Igor used the time old method of tasting the stalks, before ‘taking the plunge’ as it were and it’s a masterstroke. The wine isn’t’ “bunchy” at all, despite a couple of pump-overs and plunging twice daily during fermentation. Beautiful Eden Valley aromatics of blackcurrant, lavender, cola, dark cherry and blackberry. Medium to full bodied with soy, sandalwood, black olive and savoury spice. The tannins are firm and taught, providing serious backbone to the beautifully pure fruit. A lovely combination of elements and, as always, harmony and drinkability. Classic in so many different ways. 1026 bottles only.
Iggy Maywald 1926 Barossa Valley Syrah 2021
The Maywald vineyard is in Light Pass, on Terra Rossa Soils. One of the best Barossan reds from this vintage, showcasing the virtuosity of Igor as a winemaker, making the absolute best out of the Maywald vineyard. Intensely aromatic and purer with dark cherry, Guinness, blackcurrant, bitter chocolate, kirsch, clove spice, fresh herbs, pipe tobacco and blueberry. Full bodied and luxurious, with a seamless, silky flow. The tannins are sculptural, indeed they run the whole length of the wine and for all their firmness, there is no doubting their finesse and quality. The finish is savoury and long, those tannins morphing somewhat and reminding you of how powerful the Barossa can be. An absolute masterclass in controlled power and elegant strength. Pure, wonderful luxury, like a richly furnished room, overlooking the bay in Naples. 1008 bottles only.
