With just 5 hectares of vines and making around 2000 cases of wine a year, Antoine Jobard is a tiny producer of some of the finest Meursault. Francois, Antoine’s son is now making the wines, and the changes have been subtle. Change is often abhorred, particularly when the estate is as revered as this one, but thankfully Francois’ have been for the better.
The style of the wine is no different; taut, muscular, concentrated, mineral, precise, refined, tightly wound and full of dry extract. But vintages in recent years have been warmer, drier and earlier, necessitating less time in barrel. The amplitude, richness and sheer presence of these wines is entirely fruit driven, with very little winemaking artifice.
New oak is not part of the regimen here, but long aging in wood has been a mainstay of the Jobard estate for many years. Warmer summers have brought the typical aging in wood down from 2 years, to around 18 months, Francois wishing to avoid a second summer in barrel, preserving freshness. The wines are better for it, all chisel and no fat, despite full malolactic fermentation with full solids and extended aging on lees, albeit without stirring. Sulphur, sorry fashionistas, is kept high enough, which is traditional for white Burgundy, to ensure long aging.
These traditional and simple winemaking techniques have yielded remarkable wines, an affirmation of just how great these vineyards are. There are no grand crus in Meursault, but the Jobard estate produces wines of such stature as to rival many of the best.
The 2017’s tasted
Antoine Jobard Bougogne Blanc 2017 – Aromas of vanilla, spice, discreet wood, frangipani, lemon oil and apricot. Almost full bodied, luscious and concentrated. Very complex. Yellow peach, lime, apricot, spice and subtly peach skin texture. Full of extract, amplitude and very long. The best Bourgogne Blanc we’ve tasted for a long time.
Antoine Jobard Meursault Les Tillets 2017 – Extremely complex aromas of kiwifruit, grapefruit, white/yellow/purple flowers, green apple and camphor. Concentrated with discreet wood, lemon, lime, kiwifruit, grapefruit, pithy, textural and mineral. Racy acidity. Fresh, long on the palate and very tightly wound. This coiled beauty has years ahead of it.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres 2017 – Not tasted. Only 12 bottles imported.