Like the first rosebud of the season that has fully coloured, but is only just beginning to open up, this is full of promise. Densely packed with minerals and positive tannins that are neatly wrapped in creaminess from lees contact, this is locked into its own time frame. You really need to give it a lot of air for the Mirabelle, nectarine, and mandarin notes to emerge. Then there’s a stunning interplay of fruit and structure through the long, very complete finish. 98 points, Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
Dry. Organic. Im Breumel is a historic walled section (a ‘clos’ in other words) within the Haardter Bürgergarten vineyard. Müller-Catoir’s legendary former winegrower, Hans-Günther Schwarz, always insisted this parcel was the greatest single site of the Mittelhaardt (or central Pfalz). Today, it gifts us Müller-Catoir’s only Grosses Gewächs bottling. Exclusively owned by Müller-Catoir, this uppermost parcel of the Bürgergarten is protected by a sandstone wall that creates a warmer microclimate. The area, which faces towards the southeast, warms very quickly in the mornings, and due to its proximity to the forest, cools soon after sunset. The soil here is more impoverished than the lower section of Bürgergarten, consisting of pure mottled-yellow sandstone gravel with a high ratio of decomposed stone. The fruit here is cropped at a very low 28-30 hl/ha. One-third of the wine was fermented and matured in 1,000-litre oak vessels.
Explosively bright and with searing intensity, this is a wine of rare power and grace, laden with an indescribable procession of fruit, spice and flowers. Crammed with coiled energy and finishing extraordinarily long, this is Müller-Catoir’s opus to this extraordinary Riesling vintage.