Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2023

Producer Profile

Very few producers are as synonymous with a varietal as Grosset is with Riesling. Founded in 1981 in the town of Auburn, Clare Valley by Jeffrey Grosset it produces tiny amounts of single vineyard wines. Not only Riesling, but Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Fiano, Nero d’avola and Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills.

The vineyards are high altitude plantings around Mount Horrocks. Distinctly different from one another, these differences are expressed in the varietals planted and the wines in the bottle. All vineyards are certified biodynamic and the wines are better than ever.

You cannot escape the sheer power of Grosset Rieslings, but they have achieved a greater level of refinement, balance, width, purity and finesse unimaginable 10 years ago. This phenomena is down to experience, a subtle natural evolution towards finesse, away from brute power, but also biodynamics. Ironically, Grosset’s other wines have always been a beacon of poise and elegance, particularly the Gaia even when the fashion for size was prevalent.

Biodynamics enables grapes to ripen sooner, ensuring natural acid retention, greater fruit purity, softer palates, supple textures and less weight, without sacrificing power. Indeed, since at least 2017 the wines are better balanced, harmonious, fine and with greater length. They may be less obviously powerful, but they are approachable younger, have longer palates and will be longer lived. Significantly so.