Irrewarra Chardonnay 2023

It’s curious to note that the Irrewarra pinot noir provides the Farr stable with a burlier, darker, savoury and earthy wine, whilst the chardonnay is the most linear, precise and acid driven of the range. I’m not sure if this is a function of the vineyard or winemaking choices, but it makes for a fascinating and thrilling set of wines. Citrus notes, honey, beeswax, cream, delicate gardenia and a nougat, sweetened condensed milk suppleness. Gorgeously pure, the tightly framing acidity tensioned by discreet wood, playful fruit and lovely purity. Restrained power here, wonderful clarity, poise and balance of elements. The most elegant of the Farr whites. Waters Wine Co

I had to check the notes for the previous release to make sure I wasn’t indulging in hyperbole two years in a row. The 2024 Irrewarra Chardonnay is brilliant. Lovely white gold in the glass the palate cool from the fridge yet immediately giving. It has a softness that defers to finer notes of acidity, ripe citrus and barley sugar; delicate honey and creaminess. In a world where making everyone happy is next to impossible, this wine, in my opinion, goes as close to universal appeal as it can. Generosity combined with finesse, flavour and restraint. It may seem contradictory, but this is a wine in which you see that conflict play out in the glass. It’s very, very delicious. As always, the big problem will be getting enough to drink and also keeping some in the cellar. I found myself glugging rather than sipping, as it is such a pleasure to drink. Ben Knight