This single vineyard Chardonnay is from La Gondonne which lies on denser soils of blue clay, marl and limestone. Here the vines are a massale selection made from cuttings taken from the Les Clos holdings of the Raveneau and Dauvissat families that have close ties with the Goisot clan. It’s a superb site that typically produces the most complex, kaleidoscopic wine of the three single vineyard releases. It is also the most structured wine in the cellar. The Goisot family feel that this is the closest that the Côtes d’Auxerre gets to the Le Clos grand cru of Chablis, which is why they planted the cuttings from this famous Chablis site here. Early days here yet the wine is already delicious. So perfumed and lifted in the mouth with lemon drop, brine and yellow plum fruit and a driven, tangy close. Upright and focused, with vigour and purity, this tells you exactly the part of France in which it was reared.
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