Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc 2018 (1.5L)


Has Bourgogne Blanc ever been this good? Complex, pure and delineated notes of hazelnut, faint wood, citrus, peach and a touch of pear. Explosive and bright, with waves of grapefruit, lemon, lime and cherry. Chalky, zesty, pithy, long with some chewy extract to close. The best Bourgogne Blanc ever from Leroux, and better than many a Meursault. Waters Wine Co.

A mini-Meursault, this is also the first Leroux Bourgogne drawn almost entirely from Estate fruit (about 90%). The vineyards are Les Millerands, Sous la Velle and Les Belles Côtes, with each parcel well sited on the Côte. Unlike the vast majority of Bourgogne—which typically hails from the plains below the D974—Leroux’s vines are grown on limestone-rich terroirs above the main road. The Meursault fruit was supplemented with some 10% from the Hautes-Côtes this year. It was mostly raised in 12-hectolitre foudres for 12 months before finishing its élevage in stainless steel for four months. As always, this punches well above its weight. There’s terrific generosity but it’s also matched by sappy, juicy drive and length.

Mix of stainless steel for 20%, then foudres of 12hl and a bit in normal barrel. Barrel because not enough foudres, and tank because not enough barrels! It was still in barrel in December 2019 because it was continuing to refine. Fine pale colour with a light green tint. This is a lean and hungry Bourgogne Blanc yet with considerable flesh behind and unusually persistent. 88 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy     

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