Paul Bara Comtesse Marie de France Grand Cru 2012

Producer Profile

Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne’s most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but from 2001, all grapes were kept for this tiny, ambitious estate.

The Savarts have vineyards in Ecueil and Villiers-aux-Noeuds. Ecueil soils are sand over clay, with patches of chalk, whilst Villiers tend to be much chalkier. Here they have the rare and sought after fin d’Ecueil locally known for its intense perfume and deep fruit. Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown in vineyards managed holistically, though not certified. It’s better to prevent disease through healthy vineyards, rather than treat it according to Frederic.

Winemaking is simple and the approach teases out the differences in terriors. Stainless steel ferments mostly, though more wood is being used and malolactic may be blocked, or not, depending on vintage conditions and style of wine. Reserve wines all go the malo. Dosage of up to 7grams, down to nothing, once again depending on the cuvee and style of wine desired.

The range of Champagnes is without doubt an expression of the estate’s holdings, and as such the finished wines are all quite different from one another. Most wines have a dominant component of Pinot Noir, though there is a 100% Chardonnay and 100% Pinot Noir in the range too. Ageing is kept to a minimum,to intensify fruit and structural cut. What’s compelling about Savart’s releases is their absorbing beauty – to be drunk and not just tasted. Yet every wine is so different from the last, anchored to their soils and the people who make them.