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$165.00
Too many Blanc de Blancs are sour and overtly mineral, making them difficult to enjoy, let alone drink. Gosset as ever manages to assemble a Champagne of completeness, a combination of invigorating freshness and a blanket of texture and fruit. At first subtle, but that doesn’t last as the beautiful aromas of burnt butter, nougat, jasmine, spiced apple and tangy citrus waft. Very fine and even across the palate, exquisite finesse. Fleshy and taut, with salty frothiness, plump fruit and savoury, toasty spice. OMG. Waters Wine Co
100% Chardonnay from the villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Villers-Marmery, Trepail… aged a minimum of 3 years on lees. No malolactic to retain freshness and precision and bottled with 8 gms/ltr dosage. The elegance and finesse of this wine makes it the ideal companion for an aperitif. Thanks to its freshness, it is also possible to pair it with many dishes such as scallops, crab, a fish tartar, oysters, gougères, a risotto with slivers of parmesan cheese, white meat, a young and fruity comté, parmesan cheese. Importer’s notes
‘The Gosset house style of refined minerality and thrilling malic acidity has shone in its blanc de blancs since its inaugural 2011 base release, and never more brilliantly than it does in this 2013 base of bright, pale straw hue. Youthful purity and focus rise with grand cru fruit presence and impressive concentration of pinpoint lemon and generous white peach, pear and golden delicious apple. This pristine fruit melds seamlessly with the brioche, almond nougat, shortbread, fresh vanilla and spice of lees age, and reductive nuances of struck flint. Ripe yet full and energetic malic acidity brings drive and focus to a finish of impressive length and tension, energising frothing salt minerality of heightened presence. It holds excellent harmony and poise on the finish, with fruit, minerality, dosage and malic acidity intricately entwined and uplifting. A thrilling blanc de blancs with the confidence to hold its poise for many years to come.’ 94 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.
‘A cuvée that emphasizes Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, the latest rendition of the NV Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut exhibits scents of citrus oil, green apples, fennel, white flowers and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with a broad and powerful attack that segues into a tightly wound, racy mid-palate and concludes with a precise, delicately mordant finish. Drink 2020-2035.’ 93 points, William Kelly, The Wine Advocate, May 2019.
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Frederic Savart produces some of Champagne’s most thrilling wines in the quiet corner of Ecueil. From just 4 hectares he makes around a dozen Champagnes. Founded by his father in 1947, like virtually all growers they sent most of their grapes to the local Co-Op but from 2001, all grapes were kept for this tiny, ambitious estate.
The Savarts have vineyards in Ecueil and Villiers-aux-Noeuds. Ecueil soils are sand over clay, with patches of chalk, whilst Villiers tend to be much chalkier. Here they have the rare and sought after fin d’Ecueil locally known for its intense perfume and deep fruit. Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown in vineyards managed holistically, though not certified. It’s better to prevent disease through healthy vineyards, rather than treat it according to Frederic.
Winemaking is simple and the approach teases out the differences in terriors. Stainless steel ferments mostly, though more wood is being used and malolactic may be blocked, or not, depending on vintage conditions and style of wine. Reserve wines all go the malo. Dosage of up to 7grams, down to nothing, once again depending on the cuvee and style of wine desired.
The range of Champagnes is without doubt an expression of the estate’s holdings, and as such the finished wines are all quite different from one another. Most wines have a dominant component of Pinot Noir, though there is a 100% Chardonnay and 100% Pinot Noir in the range too. Ageing is kept to a minimum,to intensify fruit and structural cut. What’s compelling about Savart’s releases is their absorbing beauty – to be drunk and not just tasted. Yet every wine is so different from the last, anchored to their soils and the people who make them.