Traviarti Nebbiolo 2023

Understated aromatics, but nothing a good swirl and cupping of glass won’t sort out! Black/hedge and red fruits, ruby grapefruit, a little reductive, smokey, alpine herbs, licorice and pink peppercorns. A totally different beast to the Black Springs; deeper and more brooding. Wider in shape, the fruit plusher and very complex, sweet but very tangy, so the spectrum’s more like red cherry, blackberry, redcurrant and cranberry. More savoury, grown up, the baking spices, tar, florals and earthier elements weave with the fruit, acid and tannin. Traviarti’s tannins are different. They are not Piedemontese, and I mean this in a good way. Gripping and mouthwatering, but not bitter and with every single release, harmonised, the month of idling on skins has worked wonders. Still elemental at this stage, ironically the most backward upon release, when one considers this will be the last. At its best when? One of the finest, no question, but in need of some time in the bottle. We’ll miss this. Norris at Waters Wine Co

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