Pipan Steel Tesoro Nebbiolo 2018

Tasted alongside the 2017, the 2018 vintage is warmer and drier, and so fuller, with a slightly darker fruit profile and pronounced structure. Gorgeous aromatics of cola, aniseed, cassis, rose, geranium, bitumen and savoury spice. Rich and full flavoured, but in no way heavy and the overall impression is one of translucence and purity. Round in shape, fresh, lifted and bright, with soft velvet tannins that hold and hold. Stunning drinking, compelling cellaring. Waters Wine Co

A blend of three clones: 41/35/24% VII/IX/X. Air please! Tesoro loves a swish or three of air, or a full decant – then watch it transform. A combination of florals and savoury earthy notes brings this dark-fruited beauty to life on the bouquet. The palate remains taut as a drum, enjoying a waiting game, which is a favourite pastime of the variety. Tied together tightly at this stage by clone VII, with its well-defined astringent tannins. Allow time for the other clones to make their presence felt. It will be worth it. 95 points – Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion

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