Thistledown Thorny Devil Grenache 2023

From several districts, off old, dry-grown bush vines. The ferments are all nuanced, but all are wild, and there is always some whole bunch; maturation for eight months in old French oak. Pale in hue and pretty in fragrance, such is the vintage. Flavours skip through cranberry, wild raspberry, pomegranate and rose, with white pepper and cassia, the elevating quality the absence of easy juiciness with no loss of vibrancy. That theme is carried through on the palate, a smartly woven net of tannins ensnaring the fruit, shaping without constricting. 94 points – Halliday Wine Companion