Ministry of Clouds Silk & Stone Grenache 2024

From the Smart vineyard in Clarendon, with mostly original 1922-vine fruit employed, along with some from 1955; 63% whole bunch, about four weeks’ total skin time, then old puncheons for élevage. Pale in the glass and evocatively aromatic, as is the Smart vineyard way. Sour cherry, Campari, wormwood, dried orange peel and coriander seed. The large whole-bunch component at relatively modest alcohol is neatly integrated, spicy rather than stalky. And yes, it tastes rocky and mineral and is silkily supple, as per the name. Grenache’s tendency to bountiful red fruits is so well measured here, the balance between savouriness and fruitfulness à point, the wine serenely medium weight yet so complex and layered. A lovely thing. 97 points – Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion