It’s not often you come across hand crafted, tiny production wines, from vineyards that are either biodynamic/organic or sustainable, that are affordable and delicious. Mauricio Ruiz Cantu is the man behind Somos, a Mexican, and much of his wine gets exported to the land of his birth. McLaren Vale is his focus, and its ever expanding network of ‘alternative’ varieties, mostly Italian, but French too. Maybe alternative is a bit strong. There’s nothing alternative about vermentino, fiano or cabernet franc, they are classic grapes after all, we’re just getting to know them.
Winemaking at Somos is pretty simple. Hand harvested, wild fermented and a pretty short maturing process. Whole bunches, whole berries, lees work, old wood, it’s all part of the mix, and every decision and process ensures wines of vigorousness, energy and flavour intensity. Classicism as a concept or vinous philosophy has a certain redundancy, and yet for all their pluck and presence, the wines of Somos are modern classics.
Somos Biodynamic Albarino 2024
Such a gorgeous wine with grapefruit, pear, yellow fruits, preserved lime, lemon, pink lady apple, jasmine and honey. Wonderfully fully flavoured and succulent, with texture and citrus drive focusing and lengthening the palate. All of the Somos wine’s are for drinking upon release, and the prices are eye wateringly cheap, but I would love to see this in 5 years and more. Fantastic and we are in bargain territory here.
Somos Biodynamic Vermentino 2023
A very pure vermentino, a variety whose texture and weight can be so hard to control. White flowers, honeysuckle, pear, ginger, white peach, fresh and preserved citrus. Silky and succulent, with creamy notes, hints of wood, opulent fruit, tangy citrus and salivating minerals.
Somos Biodynamic Aglianico 2023
How to tame those aglianico tannins! This is classically styled in a sense, but has the vibrancy, energy and brightness of a contemporary wine. Black and bramble fruits, licorice, fennel, cola, rosemary and violets. Sweet and sour fruit, some fruit case spice, seaweed, tobacco and a tension between angular tannins, prickling acidity and pure high toned fruit. Wonderful.
