Sakkie Mouton has become a cult figure in the South African wine scene, crafting wines from regions virtually unknown to the outside world. Vineyards in the Vredendal and Koekenaap aren’t exactly on everyone’s vinous radar, having been mostly used in bulk wine production.

Nowhere but South Africa are grapes so happily blended, many of them considered inferior, into masterpieces. Sakkie uses blends to celebrate what can be achieved from ‘humble’ vineyards, and single varietals if the vineyard is able to produce a complete wine. No additions save for a little sulphur are used and a variety of vessels, except new oak for maturation.

South African wine is in the infancy of a golden age, utilising a smorgasbord of varietals in such a manner unimaginable anywhere else in the world. And Sakkie Mouton is one of a half dozen cult producers you just have to try.

 

Sakkie Mouton Vloedvlak Colombar 2023

This is another wonderfully pinpoint and precise white wine that speaks volumes about the increasing focus and textural finesse Sakkie now manages to increasingly capture on all his wines. Beautifully perfumed, saline and mineral all at once, the nose is packed full of white blossom, lime peel, white peach, orange zest, sherbet coated bon bons, and wet thatch notes over multiple layers of wet stone minerality, a sea breeze salinity, dried kelp and umami, nori seaweed nuances. Like all Sakkie’s wines, the aromatics are very subtle and delicate, merely suggestive rather than prescriptive.

In the mouth, the texture is fine, crystalline and harmonious, but also deliciously tangy and mouthwatering with salty, briney acids, notes of lemon and lime pastille, white peach and a long, clean, stony savoury finish. I tasted this new release over two days to really let the wine’s full complexity express itself and to allow the underlying texture to open its shoulders and fill all corners of the mouth. After that, even my stoical will power was insufficient to hold off drinking the rest of the bottle. This is a majestic white wine and another important building block in the ongoing South African Colombar(d) storyline. Drink now and over the next 6 to 8+ years. 94+ points – Greg Sherwood MW

 

Sakkie Mouton Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc 2023

Already in its sixth vintage, this new Revenge of the Crayfish Chenin Blanc 2023 once again pushes the boundaries of intensity, clarity, and purity of characterful Weskus Chenin Blanc fruit sourced from the unique Koekenaap coastal vineyards located about five kilometres from the cold Atlantic ocean on well drained Sandstone soils. This latest release shows a wonderfully complex aromatics of taut lime peel, freshly grated green apple, white blossom, apricot pip, fresh fennel leaf, and a subtle hint of under ripe green pears.

The evolution of the Crayfish style is most evident in the way Sakkie has learnt to tame the Weskus briney maritime rock salt salinity and integrate it into a more complete, classy, layered expression while retaining plenty of liquid minerality and the kelpy, nori seaweed nuances. The larger format 500 litre oak barrels also seem to bring out the very best characteristics of the Chenin Blanc fruit, exposing a more glycerol, textured mid-palate packed full of pithy lime peel, white peaches, and savoury apple notes. This wine is not only one of Sakkie’s finest whites bottled to date, but also one of the most delicious and mouthwatering whites I have drunk all year. My admiration for this young winemaker grows with every subsequent vintage release! Well done Sakkie. Drink on release and over the next 8 to 10+ years. 97 points – Greg Sherwood MW

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