I get asked all the time – what is the best wine you’ve ever had? Or, who is your favourite producer? I always find these questions impossible to answer. There are infinite variables and, equally, infinite responses. But if I had to choose a single producer that makes great wine, some of it incomparable across different varietals and styles, then the answer is simple – Keller.
The Keller Quality
Keller produces wines across all Pradikat levels and from more than one varietal. Every wine is wonderful. No matter the price, grape or style, buy it and you will be impressed.
Many famous wine producers make their name from their top wine, their most expensive. But I have always felt with Keller, and yes, some of their wines are eye wateringly expensive, that their reputation is built on providing the greatest possible wine in the world, regardless of price.
Most of the Keller 2018’s won’t be released until later this year, so the Riesling trocken and Silvaner are a terrific indication of what to expect. I for one can’t wait! The vintage is a great one, certainly the best since 2015 and many commentators are asking the inevitable question – is this the greatest vintage yet?
Heat and drought are certainly a feature of the vintage. March was cool, delaying budbreak and prolonging the associate risks of hail and frost. April brought on very warm conditions, hastening flowering and expectations of an early vintage. The warm dry weather continued through to harvest. Many young vines and vines on slopes were under great pressure due to the heat and lack of rain.
Curiously, this is a bumper crop, between 20 and 25% above the average. Producers with old vines and the best sites are talking of a ‘miracle’ harvest and some of the greatest wines they have seen. There will certainly be an abundance of concentrated, full bodied dry wines and all the sweeter styles have been produced in good quantities and to an extraordinary quality.
The dry white wines of Keller offer loads of personality from the very beginning. They usually drink well immediately upon release, and of course, many will live through the ages. Invariably, they possess the ripest, plushest fruit balanced with volume, breadth, texture, minerality, concentration, freshness and energy. They are remarkable for their drinkability and complex profiles.
Beautifully vivid flavours. Precise and mingled notes of spring jasmine, yellow peach, succulent ripe limes and frothing minerals. Terrific, tensile texture. Pulpy, pure and precise with sumptuous, refreshing flavours. Absolute drop dead bargain.
Keller is synonymous with Riesling, but their Silvaner is amongst the most revered and offers a fabulous alternative to Riesling. Notes of exoticism. Spiced apples, grapefruit, lime, blood orange and dried herbs are infused on a textured palate. Quite full, but with loads of energy and subtle minerality. Fabulous wine offering up incredible complexity at this price.