Some years ago I attended a trade tasting of one of Australia’s oldest and most prestigious fine wine distributors. Many of the producers on offer were household names and I had been out of the trade a long time, so it was a perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with the best Australia and the world had to offer. To my shock and surprise, I walked out of that tasting with one producer on my mind – Claude Riffault.
An exception
Sancerre has never been my favourite wine region, and it still isn’t. This year, 2024, I have more wines of the Loire than I ever have. Everyone it seems is looking for less expensive, classic, fine French wines. What is clear to me is that Sauvignon Blanc is not in the same league as Chenin Blanc, let alone Chardonnay, and there are really very few ‘exciting’ wines or producers emanating from Sancerre or Pouilly Fume. At least not in reference to price. The best Savennieres is far better than anything coming out of Sancerre. Unless you’re talking about Claude Riffault.
Riffault on the brain
I did nothing about that first encounter with Claude’s wine, except store the experience. Another day, another trade tasting, and lo and behold, I was the first person there, so lets start with Claude Riffault. Many vintages apart, and the effect was the same. I walked out of a wine tasting, having tasted some truly monumental local and imported wines and it was Claude Riffault on the brain. I couldn’t believe it. I love sweeping prejudice aside. There are always exceptions, and here is one.
A kaleidoscope of flavours
The estate comprises of 15 hectares around Sury-en-Vaux, in the north of the appellation. Stephane, Claude’s son, has taken over the Domaine, working 33 parcels of vines, 12 hectares of sauvignon blanc, and three of pinot noir. The vineyard work is all done by hand. Vitrification is natural, with a high proportion of solids, ageing on lees in large format oak and bottled unfiltered. The wines are rich, concentrated and textural, with terrific mid palate flesh, precise structures and silken mouthfeel. Effortless and poised with exceptional complexity; persistent with a kaleidoscope of flavours.
Sensual delights
Rather than focusing on single vineyards, Stephan instead highlights the lieux-dits, showcasing their difference of soils, exposure and elevation. It is important to note that the flavour differences are minor, the wines undergoing the same viticultural, vinification and ageing methods. Sensual delights unwoven with the tongue, their differences are to be found in their weight, volume, shape and mouthfeel. There is an effortlessness to the wines of Claude Riffault – a flow, so gentle, yet powerful, as if moving the freshest of fresh water around your mouth. Lingering purity.
Claude Riffault Sancerre Mosaique Calcaire 2023
The estate’s emblematic wine in the sense that it comes from parcels from all of the main soil types. The method is slightly different here, ageing for a shorter period and in concrete. Vibrant, complex and packed with energy. White flowers, lime, white peach, green apple and white cherry. There is a savoriness, but it’s more immediate and less wild, curry leaf comes to mind. The acidity is more piqued here and the fruit is higher toned, a great illustration of what shorter ageing can do and a masterful winemaker at work. This has got to be the most serious ‘entry level’ white wine in the Loire, alongside Thibaud Boudignon’s Anjou Blanc. Waters Wine Co
Claude Riffault Les Boucauds 2022
Les Boucauds is grown in kimmeridgian limestone soils, and aged in foudre and large format oak. An utterly unique expression of sauvignon blanc. Rich, structural and full bodied, with smoke, minerals, spice and earth. The fruit profile certainly stands out in this line up, with a certain musky, sensual exoticism that I find captivating. Port wine, magnolia blossoms, fig, quince, blackcurrant and yellow peach. Great palate weight, breadth and amplitude, yet it’s tensioned by chewy extract and zingy acids. Power and mystery, a wine of great intrigue and seduction. Waters Wine Co
Claude Riffault Les Chasseignes 2022
Les Chasseignes is from a selection of vineyards grown on limestone soils known as caillottes. East and south east facing, up to 300m in altitude, free draining and very cool. Fermented and aged in foudre and large format oak, the Les Chasseignes is the most expressive of the lieux-dits. Notes of white flowers, Anzac biscuit, white peach, green apple, pawpaw, pear and fresh herbs. Extremely pure, spicy, floral, savoury and creamy. Beautifully appointed, rich curvaceous, so fine and gosh the purity! My favourite wine here, one of my favourites from anywhere. Long, effortless, harmonious. Wonderful now and with great potential. Waters Wine Co
Claude Riffault Les Denisottes 2022
Les Denisottes is from a single parcel of Kimmeridgian marl known as terres blanches. Very perfumed, indeed the most expressive, yet subtle of all the wines. Floral, with fresh citrus, orchard fruits, mint, sage and marjoram. The flavour delineation is extraordinary. Pirouetting, a wine of great movement and tensile straight. There is a delicacy here, yet the purity, focus and persistence is incredible. Discreet, subtle and broad, every descriptor is seemingly tensioned by an opposite. A truly remarkable bottle of wine. Waters Wine Co
