Any conversation involving chenin blanc has to include South Africa and particularly, the wines of Alheit. Chenin Blanc has been in South Africa longer than Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and is without a doubt the country’s foremost fine wine varietal. Only whites are made at Alheit, and we live in hope that they vinify a red, grenache perhaps, but Chris Alheit is adamant that only heritage vines will do. Small parcels of colombard, semillon, chardonnay, verdelho, roussane and muscat are farmed, but are always blended with chenin. The blending of varietals is a historical legacy in the South African wine tradition, and they are utterly on the global wine scene.
These wines are made simply, without any winemaking artifice. I don’t want to say they are ‘raw’, because it implies simplicity and coarseness. But they are about as naked and as pure as the oysters you should eat with them.
The simplicity of Alheit’s approach isn’t necessarily unique, but almost all great producers of white wine will finesse their winemaking, adding just that little bit of dazzle. But not here, and it’s not needed; the dazzle is all vineyard expression. Whole bunch pressed, naturally fermented and aged in neutral oak, before a stint in tank on fine lees. That’s it. Anyone for some oysters?
Alheit Hereafter Here Chenin Blanc 2023
Hereafter Here is what Chris Alheit calls a “young vineyard wine” although it contains older material from the Paardeberg and Tygerberg too. Blended with a splash of Semillon from Franschhoek, it’s a total bargain in the range, with a nice interplay of lees, beeswax and granite-derived structure and a touch of flinty reduction. 2024-29 – Tim Atkin MW, SA Special Report 2024, 94/100′
The 2023 Hereafter Here has a disarmingly pure bouquet with yellow plum, candle wax and just a touch of crushed stone, all exquisitely defined and focused. The palate is very well balanced with a line of electricity that goes from start to finish. Vivid flavors unfurl in the mouth, with hints of grapefruit peel and a liberal splash of stem ginger toward the finish. This is an outstanding Hereafter Here. – Neil Martin, Vinous, 93 Points
Alheit Vineyards Cartology 2023
“The 2023 Cartology has slightly more Sémillon in the blend this year (see the Producer Commentary for Chris Alheit’s reasoning why). As usual, this is a blend of what he considers to be his best parcels. It has one of the classiest bouquets you will find in a South African white this vintage: yellow fruit, a soupçon of peach skin, lanolin and whisked egg whites. Stunning delineation and purity. The palate is very well balanced with a bright and tensile opening. This has a killer line of acidity and is full of tension and complexity, concluding with a mineral-driven finish that has a slightly waxy/resinous texture. Very long. Very classy.” – 95 points, Vinous
Alheit Vineyards Fire by Night Chenin Blanc 2023
“Fire by Night comes from the Alheits’ Newudam farm, made with grapes from parcels planted between 1972 and 1985 on the Paardeberg. You can taste the granite here, as well as the intensity of dry-farmed old vines: focused, taut and concentrated, with fennel, oatmeal and thatch aromas, subtle wood spices and a flinty, mouth-watering finish.” 2025-35 – 97 points – Tim Atkin
The 2023 Fire by Night, which comes from dry-farmed bush vines planted between 1971 and 1985 on Alheit’s farm in the Paardeberg in Swartland, was whole-cluster-pressed and settled overnight. It was aged half in cement egg and half in foudres for 12 months. This has a breathtaking mineral-driven bouquet, with struck flint and just a touch of reduction. Captivating! The palate is very well balanced with a taut line of acidity. Sapid in the mouth and judiciously spiced with lemongrass and ginger, it fans out beautifully on the finish. It’s a stunning Fire By Night. 97 points – Neal Martin
Alheit Vineyards Huilkrans Chenin Blanc 2023
“Huilkrans comes from Jozua Visser’s Oudam farm, located at 450 metres in an isolated spot on Citrusdal Mountain, sometimes called the Skurfberg. Planted between 1974 and 1978, the vines are all dry-farmed, producing yields of almost painful paucity. Fermented in old barrels before ageing on lees for 12 months, this sings with what Chris Alheit calls a baritone voice. Green fig, lime and greengage flavours are complemented by a ferrous undertone and a stony finish. 2025-35” 98 points – Tim Atkin MW South Africa Report 2024
Alheit Vineyards Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023
“Hemelrand comes from the vines that are planted around Chris Alheit’s winery on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge and is an intriguing cuvée of Chardonnay, 28% Roussanne, 18% Chenin Blanc, 17% Verdelho and 1% (very perfumed) Muscat. Featuring some botrytis-affected grapes caused by the rains in 2023, this has pear, orange zest and fresh grape flavours and some lees-derived texture. 2024-29” 93 points – Tim Atkin MW South Africa Report 2024
