Vintage reports aside, 2021 is an exceptional vintage for A Rodda. Only one Chardonnay was produced in 2020, due to the bushfires, so it’s a delightful relief to taste through the suite of 2021’s.
These wines are compact and coiled, packed with dense tangy citrus, apple and orchard fruits. The influence of winemaking has been scaled down, which for me marks an evolution in style for this producer. The rich oaky, creamy, nutty and reductive notes are far less obvious in 2021. These are brighter, mouthwatering, intense and chiseled wines of immense power, shimmering fruit with a Riesling-like clarity and purity. Very long lived, at least a five year cellaring is recommended.
A Rodda Willow Lake Vineyard Chardonnay 2021
From a section of the vineyard planted in 1979 with a southerly aspect. Usually the richest and most open of the three single vineyards, but this is a compact and coiled Willowlake. The southerly aspect is certainly in evidence here with white peach, nectarine, orange blossom, wood spice, sage, flint and smoke. Super intense, vivid, coiled and tense. Citrus, green apple and stone fruits, with lime zest, mouthwatering acidity and creamy notes to buff the edges. Great contemporary Australian Chardonnay.
A Rodda Smiths Vineyard Chardonnay 2021
Smiths Vineyard is located in Beechworth, planted in 1978 and partially south facing. Grapefruit, cashew, sage, lime, lime preserve, white peach and subtle wood spice. Super tight, coiled, compact and mineral. This is a real statement of intent from Rodda, his virtuosity on full display here. Again that mouthwatering tang, with crunchy green apple, citrus and stone fruit. Pith, ensuring palate grip and subtle cream, only just peeking through. Super vivid, reminds me of dry Vouvray or Rheingau Riesling, such is its drive, line, length and power. Will age for at least two decades and then some.
A Rodda Baxendale Vineyard Chardonnay 2021
Usually the tightest wine of the three, but not this year. Yellow peach, grapefruit, preserved citrus, sunflower and salted lemon. Tangy, yet generous and ample, the most texturally complex of the three. Less cream, more lanolin like, savoury, the fruit less front and centre, rather, the spice, flowers and texture taking centre stage. Stunning Chardonnay, unique in its way and quite different to the other single vineyards.
A Rodda Triangle Block Chardonnay 2019
From only 183 vines, the Triangle Block is a small parcel within the Smiths Vineyard, producing the best Chardonnay of the estate. Always more classical in style, richer, broader, powerful and very Meursault like. Cashew, flint, smoke, preserved lime, salted caramel, peach, wood, clotted cream and jasmine. Broad, rich and expansive palate, and for all its size and breadth, soft and generous. A luscious bosom of texture and flavour, round in shape and utterly moreish. Texturally gentle, the acidity soft and a subtle pithiness that holds the palate long after you’ve taken a sip.
