Somos Biodynamic Vermentino 2023

A very pure vermentino, a variety whose texture and weight can be so hard to control. White flowers, honeysuckle, pear, ginger, white peach, fresh and preserved citrus. Silky and succulent, with creamy notes, hints of wood, opulent fruit, tangy citrus and salivating minerals. Norris at Waters Wine Co

There’s a shift here, in both closure (now screwcap) and style, with no skin contact this year. The wine still saw French oak for 12 months, but the overall theme is more fruit purity. The oak maturation adds layers of texture, pleasingly pulls back fruitful exuberance and adds a savoury, gently nutty dimension. But the salty citrus profile is given more room to move, and to shine. Preserved lemon, citron, olive brine, dried peach, mint and fennel frond, the palate with some creamy flex, pithy chew and a spry conclusion. Nicely done. 93 Points Halliday Wine Companion