Diam. Moreau’s Villages wine is drawn from 20 to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, in the south of Chablis. The fruit is subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice is fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). Like the Petit Chablis, this is raised mostly in tank—it’s not until the Vieilles Vignes level and above that Moreau utilises (older) barrels in significant percentages. Even here though, the élevage is unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees—considerably longer than the vast majority of Chablis at this level.
These traditional methods—along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields (circa 35 hl/ha) and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit was harvested—help to explain the fabulous texture, depth and quality that is on offer. It’s a much more restrained and mineral expression than the Petit, and offers plenty of class. Expect waves of white nectarine, jasmine and verbena fruit, good texture, excellent sappy drive and long and powdery, juicy, rocky close. Just delicious.