Michel Lafarge Volnay ‘Clos des Chene’ Premier Cru 2022

0.28ha plot planted in 1957. On a gentle, east-facing slope, 275 m elevation, moderately shallow, reddish-brown clay soil over limestone.

100% de-stemmed, 2-3-week ambient yeast fermentation, punch-downs and pump-overs, aged for 18 months in barrels (10-20% new), no fining or filtration.

‘The 2022 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru was a little more backward and gawky than Lafarge’s other cuvées – just a stage the wine is at during its élevage. It is more mineral driven, but it needs time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins framing the layers of red fruit infused with crushed stone and a touch of spice. Very persistent on the finish that veers a little towards Pommard in style. This is a Volnay predestined for long-term aging. Drink 2029-2055’ (92-94) points, Neal Martin, Vinous Oct 2023

‘The 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is lovely, delivering aromas of cherries, red berries and plums mingled with rose petals, spices and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with excellent depth at the core, powdery tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a broad, persistent finish. This parcel has more in common with Taillepieds than with the rest of Clos des Chênes, which explains why it’s such a singular expression of this climat.’ 92-94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate Jan 2024

‘A royal purple colour. The fruit intensity on the nose outstrips all the others. What a perfect pitch of ripeness! I keep going back to smell it again. Waves of fruit wash over the palate, raspberry, a few perfectly ripe cherries, superbly nuanced as well as the intensity. Finally, a finish in perfect harmony. Drink from 2035. Tasted Dec 2023.’ 5 STAR WINE 94-97 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

‘ Note: from 45+ year old vines that sit just above Champans. This is also quite spicy with its aromas of purple fruit, wet stone, newly turned earth and a floral top note. There is a completely different mouthfeel to the voluminous, powerful and serious larger-bodied soil-tinged flavors that also flash plenty of minerality on the built-to-age and gorgeously long finish. This is brawny, but brawny in a Volnaysien way, which is to say more gymnast than body builder! Drink 2034+ ’ SWEET SPOT OUTSTANDING! 93-95 points, BURGHOUND.COM APR 2024

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