Gembrook Hill Village Pinot Noir 2022

$35.00

A taste of Gembrook Hill’s quality and style, but not from their vineyards. Classic Yarra Valley pinot notes. Sweet red fruits of English strawberry, raspberry, poached plum, violets and hints of fresh compost. There’s something incisive about the aromatics. They’re vibrant, but pointed, the flavours vivid and translucent. Medium to full bodied, plush and built like a pillow of feathers. Fuller than I expected, and better for it, this price point in the Yarra light and disappointing more often than not. Utterly serious wine. Brooding sensuality, with pipe tobacco, campfire, silk, savoury spice and the tannins textured like coffee grounds. Can a wine be classic and exotic all at once? You bet. This is stunning! Waters Wine Co

This is the only wine in the Gembrook range that is not made from grapes grown on their property at Gembrook. This year the Village Pinot is a single vineyard pinot from a vineyard in Yellingbo in the Upper Yarra Valley. In a curious twist for the Upper Yarra Valley, this vineyard is situated on grey clay loam. So while the fruit has hallmark Upper Yarra perfume it has a denser richer palate and tannin structure.In the winery the fruit is destemmed, fermented on skins for 3-4 weeks and matured in large format old French oak. Unfined, unfiltered. Estate bottled. Winemaker’s notes

 

 

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Opulence,  fresh sweet ripe fruit, silk pillow structures and rendered palates, such are the wines of Gembrook Hill. One of the Yarra Valley’s greatest producers, Gembrook Hill has been producing some of the most gorgeous, sensuous and absorbing wines since 1983. Like much of the upper Yarra, Gembrook Hill and surrounds are home to some of valley’s most coveted sites. Cooler and wetter than much of the Valley.

The estate is a single vineyard, planted predominantly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and a small proportion of Sauvignon Blanc. Sitting in a natural amphitheatre, the soils are rich and red of volcanic origin. The rich soils offset what can nonetheless be a dry site, the vines are unirrigated, with excellent drainage, but also good water holding capacity. This is of great benefit as Gembrook Hill’s use of whole bunches is pioneering. Stems will not ripen, even if the fruit is ripe, if they are under hydric stress, hence the enormous benefit derived from the rich soils. Many red wines in the Yarra Valley are bunchy and stemmy, a result of unripe stems, no matter what the sugar and grape tannin levels are.

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and a sparkling wine are all at the apex of Australian quality wine, a remarkable achievement considering the differences of varietals and styles coming from a single site. The site is clearly a great one, as it performs beautifully, even in the most trying conditions and from time to time, winemaking boundaries are pushed. Their “top” Pinot Noir, JKM, named after co-founder June Marks, is the apotheosis of the Gembrook style. Perfectly ripe fruit, about a third whole bunches and a third new oak. Rich, full bodied, luxurious, floral, spicy, silky, and with high toned acidity. Balanced, with all the elements threaded and driving together, the flavours lasting long in the mouth.

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