Soave was trendy for a time, particularly when, for some pocket change, you could purchase a relatively bland but perfectly drinkable dry white wine. There was no need for tasting notes or serious critique. These supermarket wines were designed for serious economy drinking.
I bought them too.
Served from jugs, so cold and consumed so quickly that we needed plenty of bottles to keep the action going.
But there is another, far more serious side to Soave. At its best, Soave produces some of the most refreshing, complex and compelling white wines in Italy – and some of the best-value fine white wines in the world.
At the heart of great Soave is Garganega, a variety capable of producing wines of remarkable delicacy, texture, freshness and longevity. And increasingly, the vineyards and soils of the Soave region are being recognised for the profound influence they have on the character of the wine.
What is Soave?
Soave is an Italian white wine from the Veneto region of northern Italy. It is made from at least 70% Garganega, with Chardonnay, Trebbiano and Pinot Blanc among the other permitted varieties.
Garganega unquestionably makes the most compelling Soave.
Traditionally, Garganega has been grown using the pergola training system, although Guyot-trained vines are also common. There is a stylistic difference between the two. Wines from Guyot-trained vines tend to be denser and broader, whereas pergola-trained vines can retain more of the delicacy and freshness that, in my view, represent the best of Soave.
Concentration is desirable in all fine wine, but in Soave the interplay between fruit, acidity and texture – and the balance between these three components – is fundamental to its enjoyment.
Garganega is naturally prone to high yields, vigour and disease. The traditional pergola system encourages airflow, helping to inhibit disease, while also creating an ambient cooling effect. It directs much of the plant’s energy into height, helping to moderate the naturally abundant yields of the variety.
The result, when everything comes together, is a wine that can be both delicate and surprisingly complex.
Soave vineyards: why terroir matters
The vineyards of Soave demonstrate just how dramatically soil, aspect, elevation and water availability can influence the character of a wine.
The finest vineyards are generally found on south-facing hillsides, where soils range from basalt-rich volcanic formations to limestone and calcareous soils.
The region can broadly be divided into several distinct vineyard environments, each producing a different expression of Soave.
Understanding these soils is essential to understanding why Soave can produce wines that range from light, floral and refreshing through to dense, structured and remarkably age-worthy.
Limestone soils
Limestone soils are concentrated in the western reaches of the Soave region. These vineyards tend to be cooler, with shallow topsoil and rainfall typical of the region.
The vines have to work hard. In dry years, this can become particularly challenging because the roots may be unable to penetrate deeply into the underlying substrate, sometimes reaching no more than around 50 centimetres below the surface.
These are among the least vigorous vineyards, producing lower yields and greater concentration. Combine that with the cooler sites and you have an uncommon combination capable of producing very fine wine.
The resulting wines can be intensely floral and precise, with delineated flavours, complex texture, excellent structure and a delicacy that belies their presence.
Think citrus, grapefruit, white and yellow flowers, savoury spice and honey.
This is Soave at its most refined.
Volcanic soils
The volcanic soils of Soave are predominantly found in the eastern part of the region and tend to occur on steeper, more precipitous slopes.
Topsoil is often shallow, particularly on the higher and steeper vineyards, while root penetration can be limited by the unbroken nature of the underlying bedrock.
The steep gradients also encourage drainage, meaning water can run along the bedrock rather than being readily absorbed. Water stress can therefore become a significant factor during hot, dry seasons.
These sites are warmer, however, and the mineral-rich volcanic soils are capable of absorbing and radiating heat.
Some of the most complex Soave Classico wines can come from these volcanic vineyards. They can also be among the richest and most obviously structured examples.
Flavours may range from citrus to yellow and red fruits, accompanied by sweet spices and floral notes of violet.
Volcanic plains
The volcanic plains represent some of the most fertile land in the Soave region, and traditionally many commentators have considered them less capable of producing great wine.
But that doesn’t tell the whole story.
When yields are carefully controlled, excellent wines can emerge from these vineyards. Their fertility, deep soils and high clay content provide significant water-holding capacity, allowing vines to access water even during hot, dry years.
Old vines are particularly valuable here. Their naturally lower yields can produce greater complexity, especially in challenging dry vintages.
The plains are also relatively cool, helping the wines retain freshness and vitality.
Expect flavours of red and yellow fruits, rose, daphne, lavender and sweet spice.
Limestone plains
The limestone plains are rockier, less fertile and generally warmer than the volcanic plains.
The greater variability in the soils, combined with greater temperature variation, can produce some very interesting wines.
Compared with their volcanic counterparts, these Soaves tend to be more delicate and lighter in body, with flavours of white flowers, citrus and savoury spice.
The result can be wonderfully refreshing, particularly when the wine’s natural acidity is allowed to shine.
What is Soave Classico?
The term Soave Classico refers to wines produced from the historic hillside area of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, rather than the broader Soave DOC zone.
Within this area are a number of recognised vineyard sites or crus, each with its own combination of elevation, exposure, soil and microclimate.
There are 33 recognised crus, 28 of which lie within the Soave Classico DOC.
It can be dangerous, however, to generalise about individual crus because some are enormous. The Foscarino cru, made famous by producer Inama, for example, covers around 149 hectares.
Viticultural and winemaking practices also vary enormously from producer to producer. The use of oak, particularly smaller-format oak, can significantly influence the texture, shape and flavour of a wine and, in some cases, mask some of the vineyard’s individual characteristics.
Cru Soave: the finest expression?
Cru Soave is generally regarded as the finest expression within a producer’s range.
The wines tend to be quite different from more general Soave bottlings because the intention is to express the characteristics of a particular vineyard site.
The classification of individual vineyard sites undoubtedly gives Soave enormous potential. It allows producers to explore the relationship between Garganega, soil, elevation and exposure and to produce wines with a genuine sense of place.
But it also raises an interesting question: What actually makes great Soave?
What makes a great Soave?
For me, great Soave is delicate but complex, with the interplay between acidity and texture central to its appeal.
Although it may be relatively light in body, it should have enough flesh to provide genuine presence on the palate.
It should be linear in shape, direct and precise, pretty in flavour but layered in complexity. Its structure should be threaded rather than stamped onto the wine.
This is where Soave becomes particularly interesting.
The best Cru Soave wines can have considerably more breadth, density, flesh and focus than more general examples. Lower yields and, depending on the producer, the use of oak can naturally alter the flavour, shape and concentration of the wine.
These richer, more powerful expressions work beautifully with food – particularly richer dishes and quality produce such as Serrano ham, top-quality prosciutto and Grana Padano, as well as roast chicken and pork.
Soave wine and food
Perhaps the key to understanding Soave is not to rely too heavily on rigid classifications or generalisations about flavour.
Soave is incredibly versatile with food.
It can be enjoyed as a refreshing aperitif, alongside seafood and lighter dishes, or with richer food when you’re drinking a more concentrated Cru Soave.
And this versatility is one of the great strengths of the region.
I mentioned earlier my enjoyment of cheap, jug Soave. To be sure, my ideal Soave is something very different: a delicate, complex and aromatic white wine with freshness, texture and remarkable clarity.
Cru Soave is another proposition entirely. Its greater breadth and concentration make it a natural partner for richer dishes and grander produce.
And I love the fact that, for all its potential weight and power, Soave does not have the opulence or luxury of a fine Loire Chenin Blanc or top-quality white Burgundy.
That is precisely its advantage.
There is an ease and flexibility to Soave that cannot always be matched by wines that would generally be considered greater. Sometimes wines can be too concentrated. Too expressive. Too much. Soave rarely suffers from that problem.
For grand drinking, classic drinking and casual drinking, Soave should be at the top of your list.
