Hmmm, syrah grown on granite. Bernhard Bredell became sick of seeing ancient bush vines simply grubbed up, as farmers didn’t have the markets or the ability to harvest and vinify the grapes. Scions of Sinai is based on Sinai Hill in lower Heldeberg, Stellenbosch. Bernhard’s family have been winegrowers for generations and the heart of the estate is a collection of vineyards planted by his grandfather in the 1970’s. The soils are granitic, with very little water holding capacity. Dry grown bush vines doing it tough on the veldt.
But such hard graft, yields beautiful wines. Granitic soils produce wines of low pH, high acidity, soaring aromatics and pure fruit. The old vines are extremely low yielding, hence wines of great concentration, complexity and power. What’s fascinating however is the tension that prevails. Power, without overt tannins, fruit sweetness without confection, ripeness coupled with freshness, suppleness and dustings of tertiary flavours of spice, herbs and fresh compost.
There are other fruit sources too, such as a grenache blanc from Klein Karro, one of the most inhospitable areas on the planet where you can find vines. Chenin blanc, syrah, cinsault, pinotage and grenache blanc are all vinified here, either as single varietals or blended and all made in tiny quantities. But the estate’s philosophy and DNA are traced throughout the entire range.
Winemaking is simple, but different sites, varietals and blends are made subtlety different. All wines are fermented naturally, bottled without fining or filtrations, without additions except for S02. Partial destemming for the reds, extended post-ferment maceration and ageing in a variety of oak formats. The whites are all aged on fine lees and in large or small format oak, or concrete eggs. The aim is to capture maximum expression through the purity of fruit.
Tasting the Scions of Sinai range is a statement in vivid flavours. The brightness of expression is nothing short of astonishing, and in spite of their strong character, they possess a softness and weightless energy that make them effortless drinking. South Africa is in a vinous golden age and as the country implodes around them, its winemaker’s are risking everything to craft some of the worlds most beautiful and affordable fine wines. Buy them, drink with love and don’t take them for granted.
