Speaking to Julian Castagna recently, he stated that Beechworth was as good as Burgundy; will become as famous as Burgundy, but being a relatively new region, needed time. It’s a big call to be sure, but tasting his wines and many others of the region, I’m inclined to think that he’s right.
One of the region’s great strengths, is its diversity of microclimates. You just have to drive through the area to see how hilly it is and around every corner, a different vista of colour and contrasts. Just when I thought Beechworth was all about chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz and a scattering of Italian varietals, up pops Juliard, with a GSM, a sparkling wine from pinot noir and an eerily Rhone like shiraz.
Jules and Bernard Morey are the couple behind Juliard, Bernard having grown up with one of Beechworth’s finest producers Sorrenberg. Their own vines are planted on the Sorrenberg farm, worked biodynamically, but not certified. It’s curious to note that the choices of Sorrenberg, not only with varietals, but wine style also, have not been taken up by Juliard, instead wishing to forge a different path. i asked Bernard about this, he told me that he’d fallen in love with grenache while working in Western Australia of all places, and that it had altered his perspective of what might be possible in Beechworth.
The winemaking is old school, utilising feet and a basket press, wild ferments, large format oak, mostly used. Some whole bunch for the shiraz, but the aim is to produce wines of energy and drinkability. I found them to be incredibly harmonious and gourmand, terrifically versatile with food, and the winemaking hasn’t pushed them into a discernible stylistic camp, except to say, they’re delicious!
The overall impression here is that nothing’s forced and that the wines are allowed to make themselves.
A GSM from Beechworth may sound incongruous, but if ever you were ever in any doubt of the greatness and versatility of the region, Juliard’s GSM will change your mind. All the varietals shine in this blend and this is certainly greater than the sum of its parts. The fruit is estate grown, planted on the Sorrenberg property, biodynamically farmed though not certified. Gorgeous aromatics of mulberry, blackberry, smoke, raspberry, plum, cut flowers and fennel. Super energy, slightly more than medium bodied, and pulsating with youthful vigour. The fruit, dark and ripe, yet juicy and tangy. Dark chocolate, black olive, soy, black tea and serious, firm tannins. Gourmand in style, wonderfully versatile at table. Waters Wine Co
Juliard brings such energy to its wines and none more so than its GSM, which pulses to a bright acid drive while delivering vibrant cherry, dried raspberry red plum, pressed flowers and spiced flavours with smart vanilin oak. Delivers an impressive purity of fruits and spice set to a cherry pip, dry tannin structure with aforementioned juicy acidity really working the tastebuds. All-round good balance and excellent drinking early, if you choose. 95 Points, Halliday Wine Companion
A remarkable sparkling demonstrating the ability of Beechworth, and Juliard for that matter, to produce a wide variety of wine styles at the highest level. Juliard’s sparkling is for lovers of the Bollinger style. Beautiful aromas of English summer fruits, roses, violets and baking spices. Succulent and full bodied with lovely curves, cream and brioche notes, ala Bollinger. Displays a lovely tension of elements; freshness offset by richness, fruitiness by savouriness. Harmonised, gourmand, balanced and dangerously easy to drink. Waters Wine Co
Lovely poise and subtle complexity on show, which makes you wonder why Beechworth doesn’t produce more sparklings. Scent of wild red fruits, herbs and spice with some lifted spring florals. Builds on the palate with a good core of fresh fruit persistence enhanced by some gentle autolysis-derived savoury, toasty complexity. Base wine of Sorrenberg pinot goes back to ’12. Aged on lees for four years before disgorging with a ‘light’ dosage of shiraz liqueur. 92 Points, Halliday Wine Companion
I asked one of the most influential winemaker’s in Beechworth recently what he thought Beechworth was best at and his answer surprised me: shiraz. Really!? Not nebbiolo, chardonnay, pinot noir, or sangiovese. Nup, trust me he said, shiraz. Beechworth’s shiraz is different. A sort of combination of Northern Rhone/Barossa/contemporary Heathcote. Juliard’s is medium to full bodied, with baking spices, gamey notes, mushroom compost and a compote of black, hedge, blue and red fruits. It’s all seemingly familiar, yet utterly unique and a terrific gateway wine. Beechworth shiraz is a thing and take it bloody seriously! Waters Wine Co
For those who think shiraz is boring, think again. Here, the grape arrives in a full ball of energy, all plummy and red-fruited, peppery and bright. Pristine fruit carries the wine, together with subtle baking spices, cocoa powder and sweet earthy notes, threaded brightly together in juicy tannins. Speaks of a varietal purity and lighter-bodied elegance. 93 Points, Halliday Wine Companion
