It’s not every day you’re lucky enough to taste a revelation, wines that alter parameters, perceptions and challenge beliefs. All tastings are worthwhile, and in a sense revelatory, but few illicit strong responses one way or the other.
I still remember my first tasting of Eben Sadie’s wines, whom I knew nothing about. From the first sip, I knew I was tasting greatness, and have felt ever since that Sadie is the greatest winemaker in the world. Standish elicited the same kindred frisson, as do the Sacred Sites of Tyrrells and now, Josh Cooper, who incidentally worked three vintages at Tyrrells.
Josh Cooper is the son of Nelly and Allan Cooper of Cobaw Ridge winery in the Macedon Ranges, a producer of incomparable regard. Interestingly, Josh sources his fruit from outside the family farm, but growing up in the Macedon Ranges he has an intimate knowledge of the region, its vineyards and growers. I have not yet come across a finer suite of negociant wines in Australia.
Bright, pure, translucent, textural, delicate and poised, with a long and lingering carry. Layered complexity, flavours and textures interwoven, seamlessly stitched, the balance is perfect, no flavour or texture dominating, an equality of components.
Beautiful flavours are one thing, but what elevates Josh Cooper’s wines into grandness is their textures, shape and tannin. Billowing, eddying their shape all movement, pirouetting, rippling, and caressing. No wine feels as another, but they all share a gentle palate presence, a pelt of velvet, silk or longer woodier tannins.
