I always think that you, as a wine buyer, need a compelling reason to buy a wine. There is staggering choice at all price and quality levels and talking of quality, wine internationally has never been better.
Most producers and their wines might fall into categories like good value or iconic or cult and so on, but occasionally you find a producer that makes great wines, but also fits nicely into the categories of great value, benchmark, best in the state, and even best in country.
Although exceedingly rare, one such producer is Haddow and Dineen. Their latest releases are from the magnificent 2023 and 2024 vintages. The 2023 pinot noir is the best to date, and for me a culmination of a stylistic evolution that has catapulted this wine into Tasmanian Grand cru status.
Pinot Gris is a speciality of Haddow and Dineen, evidence that Tasmania can and does produce great aromatic whites beyond riesling. Gruner Veltliner has a big future here too. Their pinot gris is Australia’s best, no question, every year winning this title, and the 2023 is the best to date, with a very long future.
The final wine, the 2024 riesling, is a benchmark for the state and once again, I believe they have absolutely nailed the feinherb style, just about better than anyone in the country.
Wines of this quality are rarely found at these prices, so get stuck in.
Haddow & Dineen ‘Sensucht’ Riesling 2024
Always a lovely wine to taste, opening with pear, melon, citrus blossom, spring jasmine, lime, ripe lemon and subtle buttery/pastry notes. A wine of dimensions, the textural element a caress, but it also enables the wine to hold and enfold your palate. Juicy and unctuous, there is, however, an overwhelming sense of control and precision, whilst always maintaining a sort of lavishness. Very long hold, it just goes on and on – the salty, tangy acid tensioned by the faintest summer honey. One of the best in Tasmania, if not the country.
Haddow & Dineen Pinot Gris 2023
An exciting wine to taste, and an even better wine to drink. The aromatics are thrillingly complex with, burnt butter, orange, yellow and white peach, white plum, grapefruit, summer honey, macadamia and pink lady apple. Rich and full bodied, yet immensely structured; the wine’s natural acidity balances the richness perfectly. There is a sense of luxuriousness and controlled opulence. For all its volume, flesh and curve, the wine is cut through with glittering precision. A gorgeous drink now, gosh it would be hard to have this in the cellar it’s just so good today, but if you can, hold onto a few, dozen that is, for the future looks bright my friends!
Haddow & Dineen Private Universe Pinot Noir 2023
I have been lucky enough to taste many vintages of the Haddow & Dineen pinot noir, and although I have always liked it, I’ve found it to be a bit clunky, a bit oaky and drying. Well, the 2023 has figured its shit out, the best release ever, and of a style that I think will be kept. Gorgeous aromatics of red summer fruits, cut flowers, five spice, Serrano and fresh compost. Powerful, with tangy red fruits, plums, blackberry and cranberries come to mind, with notes of bay, soy and fennel. Beautiful flow, such an easy drink, silky and supple, yet the tannins are firm and serious, that ooze and melt. The best release to date, and now entering Tasmanian Grand cru territory. Great value.
