For the intrepid wine lover, there are wonderful and affordable jewels in the Gippsland dirt, and one such producer is Dirty Three Wines.
Dirty Three signifies three vineyards, from which single site wines are made, but the fruit is also blended to produce the estate’s emblematic wine, ‘All The Dirts’ Pinot Noir. All the vineyards are located in South Gippsland, on dark heavier soils ranging from red to black volcanic through to clay loams. Gippsland’s weather can be pretty miserable, and it’s my view that regions that experience high levels of cloud cover produce pinot noirs with greater tertiary characteristics, such as cured meat, smoke and earthy notes. The topsy turvy weather does make life difficult, but it also enables producers to pick at various levels of ripeness, and I have found that Gippsland wines have a wonderful capacity to handle the extremes of winemaking philosophy.
Dirty Three Wines practice a level of restraint, incorporating many winemaking styles, without fetish. Alcohols are moderate, pH’s stable, elevage is average (at up to 12 months) and some new wood is used. Flavours are therefore intense, yet harmonised; all the elements providing tension and balance.
Dirty Three also produce a riesling, the only one I’ve tried from Gippsland, and up there with the best of its kind in Australia. Off dry, feinherb in style, it displays a breadth of shape, flavour complexity and tingling lightness that is simply breathtaking. For an area known for high prices and labour intensive viticulture, they’re bargains.
Dirty Three All The Dirts Pinot Noir 2023
“All the Dirts” is a blend of all the pinot noir vineyards, and as such is the estate’s emblematic wine. A lovely compote of red, black and bramble fruits, with cut flowers and savoury spice. Medium bodied, lovely flow and the tension between sweet fruit and savoury elements is pitch perfect. Wonderful intensity and gentle drive, the tannins al dente. Terrific.
The lightest hue of the pinots this vintage and, given it’s a blend, the most approachable, too, as in immediately drinkable and pleasurable. Heady aromas – all florals and baking spices with wild strawberries and juicy cherries, and a touch of exotica. The mid-weighted palate is finely tuned, with feathery tannins and crunchy acidity ensuring a long, fresh finish. 95 Points – Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion
Dirty Three The Dirty Rizza Riesling 2024
Off-dry riesling at it’s very best, and the first that I’ve had from Gippsland. A ‘feinherb’ in style, so only about 10 g/l of sugar, so the alcohol is low also, at 10.8%. Gorgeous aromatics of spring jasmine, quince, flint, preserved lime, lemon, green apple and gentle spice. Pure and refreshing, energetic, ravishing yet precise, the finish tangy, mineral and salty. Absolutely one of the best in Australia and with a very low pH, particularly age worthy.
