Bernard Defaix Chablis 2021

Screwcap. Certified organic. Defaix’s Chablis Villages is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30-plus-year-old vines situated around Milly and Poinchy, on the left bank of the Serein River. The wine was fermented wild and aged on fine lees for 10 months in glass-lined tanks. The older vines and organically tended vineyards here translate more character, refinement, and classical restraint—not to mention supersized minerality and ozone salinity. There is even more Chablisien detail this year. The texture is succulent, with the rippling splendour of stone fruit and citrus-skin zestiness to go with its charged acidity and jangle of minerals.

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